Good reviews on this. Maybe this is a good choice for tabs. And wrapping gifts.

http://www.scrapjazz.com/reviews/36

Elle

It's been 53 days since I paid for the pens and they have finally arrived. It took 5 ignored emails and 1 dispute claim in eBay's security center to get some action on this. Whole777 told me that my last email was the "first he'd received" and then within eBay's dispute console said the glue pens had been packaged in sets of two, which changed the SKU # from the old #, changing how they were sold, blah blah blah. (btw, the pens have the same SKU # as before)

Whether the latter claim is true or not, Whole777 was definitely ignoring me until I escalated the problem. If you check his/her feedback you'll see that Whole777 gets around 15-20 feedback per day and if you follow through and check his/her buyers ratings, you'll see that feedback is left in return. This leads me to suspect that his claim that he's been, "recovering from surgery and not available to return messages" is a lie; how can you sell stuff every single day and leave feedback for folks, but not check messages? Most of Whole777's negative (and even some positive) comments include mention of ignored emails.

Long story short, Whole777 is a volume seller on eBay, many buyers are satisfied, but if you somehow don't get your items, your emails will go ignored and will need to start a transaction dispute to get any kind of resolution. If you leave negative feedback (which I haven't) you will receive it in return.

Sorry to go off on a tangent here, but as this seller has been recommended in this thread, I thought I should share my negative experience. Your mileage may vary.

Now I can finally get back to my Worldworks projects!

Just a little side-line FYI that we might eventually offer official WWG craft starter packs including glue. The deal is fuzzy right now but things are in motion.

Thanks Talarius for that update. While I (and others) have received nothing but prompt service, it's still distressing to hear that "one of our own" was put through the ringer.

Caveat Emptor (which should mean carve out the Sonuvabeech until he's empty/hollow, but I suspect it means something lame like Buyer Beware).

Steve

P.S. Why Denny ... you actually have a few bleary-eyed moments to join us for little talkies? Man, do I remember my first baby well. Slept in 2 hour increments only. Didn't start sleeping in 4 hour chunks until 6 weeks old, and then (sadly) between noon and four in the afternoon. Took us 6 more weeks to get her to "sleep through the night", which for her meant midnight until six in the morning. No bottle, only breastfeeding. I have never been so tired in all my life.

There are only two tortures I believe would make me crack, and sleeplessness is one of them.

@ Talarius - Thanks for keeping us posted. I am sorry you had a bad experience, but very glad to hear it all got sorted out in the end. It's always good to hear both the good and bad stories to get a balanced picture.



This would be an excellent idea, and I'm sure most of us here would pick up a starter set or two to support the endevour. Definitely pursue this. The only problem might come from storage if you start selling glue and foamcore, but if you can manage it, WWG could truly become a one-stop cardstock mecha

Arabin

Well, haven't tried the gift wrapping yet, but you're right about the tabs. I put together a handful of stone huts from VillageWorks last night. This stuff is a great choice for tabs. It rolls onto the surface that you're gluing. I would suggest applying directly to the tab itself since the adhesive doesn't seem to dry like glue does. I tried putting it on the tab and on the wall edge that the tab would join to. Applying to the tab doesn't leave any adhesive exposed after the join is made. Applying on the edge can, depending on how much you roll on. The packaging says "applies dry". I checked on the huts this morning, and the ones that I glued on the edge still have adhesive exposed that is just as tacky as when I worked on them last night.

Initial application of the adhesive is incredibly simple. Just put the tip of the applicator down and drag it across the surface you want to glue. When joining the pieces together, there is a brief period before it sets that will allow for making adjustments. Once you burnish it, you're not going to be pulling it apart easily. On a few of the tabs, I started applying from the center, pulling out to the end of the tab. I found that you can get a little bit better coverage to the end of the tab that way, if you want the entire tab to have glue on it.

All in all, I'd recommend this product. They come in singles and 4-packs with the adhesive being .33 inches wide by 335 inches long (8.4mm by 8.5m). They are not refillable, which is the only downside to this product. Oh, and just to clarify, I got the 'permanent' version of this stuff. They also make what they call 'removable' and advertise it as something you can use to make your own post-it notes.

I hope someone can find this useful!

Tim

http://www.dickblick.com is a pretty good source for goodies if you are willing to order and not just go pick up.

http://www.dickblick.com/categories/glues/
their glue selection, now this one is interesting
http://www.dickblick.com/zz238/27/


Here is a mounting system thats also interesting, not usable with foamcore though. probably good for serious sandwich folds or Shattereds method of using illustration board.
http://www.dickblick.com/zz231/07/

Another foamcore mounting method, heat activated stuff =D
http://www.dickblick.com/zz132/10/

and some standard black foamcore, about 60% the cost of what I find around here.
http://www.dickblick.com/zz132/02/

anyone ever used this http://www.michaels.com/art/online/disp ... Num=gc0318 or something like it?

If it's the product I think it is, my kids use something like that for school projects. It is essentially a small tape dispenser (that round disk is the tape).

The unit is small and narrow, and you press it down onto your cardstock and then drag across. The very narrow tape sticks to the surface. You reach the end of where you want adhesive and slightly twist the unit to break the tape. Then you press down whatever it was you wanted to attach to the exposed portion.

No drying time since it's tape. No cleanup or excess glue to wipe off after burnighing (again, because it's tape). I'm not so sure it would really work well for cardstock models in general. Possibly applications could be small flaps on fiddly pieces where the usual glue dispenser might tend to put on too much.

But (a) the narrow double-sided tape dispensers my kids have could be different than the product shown, and (b) your mileage may vary

Steve

I have been using "Tacky" glue, wiping it on the foamboard completely but very thin. When you set the cardstock, you have to move quick (QUICK). Then I immediately place the foamcore/cardstock composite under a 12X12" ceramic tile, and its usually good to go in 15 minutes. I'm getting the UHU stuff y'all talk about, though, to try out. I've had NO warpage yet (the Mayhem Armory garage I'll post tonight was completed in
20 minutes, without fixing to base yet, and its my best non warped creation yet.

I was wrong about UHU. Realised that my test sample took place during %100+ Florida Humidity, and tried it again. Much better results this time, and that purple looks cool I figured somethying was amiss when I was the only one saying it sucked

I have always used Elmers white glue which I buy in small bottles at Ace Hardware. I have used it on long seams such as the top and bottom edges of aircraft wings. As long as I clamp the edges under a ruler while the glue is drying I get a nice clean, wrinkle free seam.
I have had problems gluing ship decks to bulkheads. The secret is to use as little glue as possible and let the glue set up before pressing the parts together. Everything has to be lined up because it usually impossible to reposition the parts if the glue has been allowed to set up.
Having read this formum, I will run to Office Depot after work and see if I can find the recommended UHU glue pens.

I'm going to break ranks and recommend double-sided tape, at least where walls are concerned. I've been using it during the development of my latest set and am floored by how good the results are. A strip around the perimeter and one or two in the middle and it's as solid as I've ever seen a cardstock wall! I'm talking about a double-length, 12" wall with ZERO warping.

Sure I'll still need glue for attaching tabs and for props and ground tiles, but for the walls themselves, it's double-sided tape from here on out!

What type of tape are you using exactly? I assume you need to use one with minimal thickness.

Geoff

Scoth tape (3M) Permenant double-sided tape. It's a bit pricey but I was short on options. I'm sure there are probably cheaper brands if you look around.

Double sided tape. I'll have to try that. Thanks CapnG

Just make sure you use a long lasting tape - the glue on cheap tape falls apart after a year or two.

*looks around shiftily*

I've, uh... I've been using double-sided tape for my walls, too. Even for some larger tabs (though you have to trim the excess off the corners and edges).

I've had a very positive experience with it, but you've got to get your alignment right the first time, or else.

I found some cheap 1" wide double sided tape at the Art Store. Good stuff.

Zip Dry glue is my new best friend!!! This glue is the greatest I've used yet!!!
http://www.wilde-ideas.com/Vndrs/Bea/ZipDryGlue.html

What happens when it gets on your fingers? Is it like super glue? Also, do you use it for large sandwich folds?

How does it work on transparencies? Those are the only thing I have trouble gluing.



Anyone know how well officedepot brand permanent double sided tape holds up?

I came here from building 1:72 scale paper armor models, and I only ever used wood glue. Never got any warping or anything. It's all about how you apply it.

If you just spread it all over the place, it starts wabbing and you lose control, which really sucked when I tried starting with the gatehouse model never having done sandwich folds before. Can you say "Corkscrew drawbridge"?

If you apply it as a series of unconnected dots, it stays put. the smaller the dots the better. don't know why. Added bonus that you have to use about 1/16th as much glue to get an identical hold.

Sorry for the late responce, been busy building and bashing



Not nothing like super glue, if you get it on you fingers just wipe it off or peel it off !!! I've been using it on the church build and that has been the only glue used on it! On large sandwich folds I use it as well, don't need much and its hardens like plastic !!!! I found it at a local craft store ( Michael's ) and it was only 4.50$ for it!!!!!



It works great no bleeding and dry 100% clear! So this might give me light on a transparency Maiden!!!!!!

Some have reported that the old standard UHU Office Pen No.99589 is in short or rare supply out there these days. I myself have had problems finding it locally (although it is still available online).

To my delight however I took a chance on UHU's latest "Twist & Glue" product and it's PERFECT for this craft! From my experience with the glue it seems to be the same "no-warp" formula as the Office Pen version but it has the added benefit of 3 application shapes to make your life easier. Not only that but each bottle contains a fair amount of glue so you won't be running out as frequently as with the pens.

Highly recommended! (Now if only we could get an official endorsement from these guys ) Check it out here: http://www.saunders-usa.com/uhu/?sku=21150

I am using UHU since more than 30 years now and have to admit it is my favorite too. If you apply it carefully warping is no issue really.

Twist and Glue was created in the 80ties and is called "Flinke Flasche" (Quick Bottle) here and yes, it is a German product

To avoid warping I have a tip:
Warping is mostly becoming an issue if you apply the glue one-sided. If you apply it equally on both sides the expansion of the paper is equal everywhere and warping is reduced. This technique also improves the long term stability of the model.

Of course the layer of glue should be thinner than what the spreader/applicator provides, so first thing I do when opening a bottle is getting rid of this ... the probate measure is actually to take a finger (or a scrap piece of cardboard) and spread the glue ...
Also the thin long nozzle of the bottle without applicator is really handy to apply glue in recessed areas. Or you can use the nozzle sideways to spread the glue if the surface is not too broad ...

For large flat surfaces I actually prefer 3M spray mount ... so miuch easier to apply and I have a good 20 years of experience with it. No warping at all and dry in a less than a minute. Great for walls and the masterboard

Well I found some pritstick pen its got a pen mode and a wide berth mode think its pritstick gel.

I've not seen it around too much saw it in staples, tried hobby craft with no success and every single superstore using approx £15 in petrol just to find a suitable glue.

UHU Office pen exists only online I've found nothing suitable or similar in shops. It might be worth setting up a UK tips thread on using glues, cards etc.

You can still buy it direct: http://www.mfgdirect.com/?q=upc:99570&source=s-usa . I keep meaning to e-mail UHU and find out why the product has been pulled from so many office supply and craft chains.

Well a little update I have used this 'Power Pritt Gel' (what I term a possible UK equivalent). The card is well and truly stuck and the best news no warping :)

I just feel I need to stuff the card with something, particularly the beds. I am considering getting some polystyrene to reinforce the inner parts and to firm it out a little.

Apologies for my previous post I noticed it made little sense.

This stuff rocks!