I have bought the "Pritt Gel" but I did not open it.

Can I use it with paper/cardboard and foamcore (finally found a cheap one in Austria)?

Bad news for US modelers, I'm afraid. I contacted the US distributor for UHU (Saunders) and they replied that the Scrapbooker's Pen *and* the Office Pen are both discontinued.

Below is the e-mail I received today.

So.... anyone got a recommended adhesive instead? I have Joann's and Micahel's stores in my area, and can buy online as needed... what's close to Scrapbooker's product?

"Thank You for your interest in Saunders products. Yes the UHU Scrapbooker's Pen is discontinued, and the UHU Office Pen 99570 also. The 21150 Twist N Glue is still available and you can purchase it right from the website at the following link http://www.saunders-usa.com/uhu/?brand=93&model=94 or you should be able to purchase at your local Michael's, JoAnn's or A/C Moore stores.

Thank You,
Scott
Saunders Customer Service"

I bought one of the office pen 2 packs and tried it on exactly 1 piece and I still prefer elmer's glue and officedepot glue sticks.

The Pritt Gel works well on all of those. I apply it thinly and use a burnishing tool (rubber roller) to push out any surplus.

The UHU office pens are still in stores; so buy them up while you can! Looks like "Scotch" has quite the product line now for scrapbooking; that may be where we have to move now. Both Joann and Michaels stock lots of their products now. Guess we'll have to do some more trial and error untill we find something we like!

I used a few glue sticks (some cheap ones my kids use and one nice 'tacky glue stick' that I really liked). They are nice and I do like using them. How well does the glue stand over time? I do love the ease of use a glue stick provides. Just rub a bit on, press together, and bam it's on to the next step.

Elmer's while glue is OK; can make a good bond but it's too high maintanace for me. I have to spread it super thin, wait for it to get tacky, gets all over my fingers (from spreading!), way too easy to get too much (which yields wrinkles!), and takes too long to set up. I just don't enjoy using it; makes the whole modeling exprience a hassle for me.

I use toothpicks to spread elemers and apply pressure to bond it. Either with a roller of some toothless pliers. That gives me essentially an immediate bond.

I've been on a desperate hunt for glue lately. With UHU retiring both its "UHU 99570 - Office Pen" & its "UHU Creativ Scrapbooking" pen, things are far more challenging!

As Jherbert noted, UHU recommends the "Twist N Glue" as a potential replacement BUT I have used that in the past and the water content was definitely higher than the office pen Maybe more recent batches have a better formula?

The problem with most "non-wrinkle", fast drying paper glues is that they tend to be toxic (bad fumes) , they are hard on your skin and they don't have the immediate strong tack we need. Those are traits we can't really have in this hobby and its what made the UHU pens so special. UHU office pens were like a hot glue gun in their properties but completely cool.

Has anyone tried the "Making Memories Universal Glue" http://store.scrapbook.com/mm-24023.html ? From various sources I've read it is non-wrinkle, non-toxic and dries fast. Or what about Elmer's "No-Wrinkle Glue Pen" http://www.dickblick.com/products/elmer ... -glue-pen/ ???

What's the weather like up there? In Florida, the models I assembled using the Uhu glue pens you recommended all fell apart after 6 months because of the humidity.



Never tried the former, but the latter is one of the glues I reviewed here: http://www.ebblesminiatures.com/forum/v ... p?tid=1420

I use Elmer's Craft Bond all-purpose glue...it's a white glue, but it's got a pretty low water content. However, it'll still warp the crap out of largish foldover parts if you don't press them together for at least an hour.

The orange no-wrinkle stuff, on the other hand, is amazing for foldovers--the stuff simply doesn't warp cardstock at all. You gotta get used to it, though...if you put too much on, it'll drive you bananas trying not to "stain" the printed side with the glossy excess that comes gooshing out of the seam, and if you put too little on, it'll dry before you fold the thing over.

I've also heard good things about Aleene's tacky glue, but have yet to try it myself.

-Mel

I use Aleene's Tacky Glue. It has a pretty fast grab. Tends to cause some warpage. They also make an "Ultra Fast Grab" version.

Luckyjoe

Thanks Mel!

I live right by the ocean (on an island actually) and it basically rains all winter here but I've never had an issue with models coming apart on UHU. Weird huh?

Elmer's "No-Wrinkle Glue Pen" sounds like the ticket to me. When I'm in development mode I'm working extremely fast. The gloss and dry time shouldn't be an issue and I'm waaaaay too impatient to wait for something to dry under a book It actually sounds a lot like UHU in that it dries fast and has that residual gloss (if you use too much). I might cut the back end off of some of my UHU pens and try dumping in some Elmer's (I really like the size, shape and nib on those tubes).

Anytime!

Refilling glue pens is a bit of an art--try and find a medicine syringe (the plastic kind, no needle, used to give liquid medication to pets), and make a hole that is only just big enough for the tip of the syringe. Use that to refill the pen, then seal the hole with some electrician's tape. Seal it really good--I mean, like, tape over the hole vertically and then tape around the tape horizontally to lock it in place. Oh, and make sure you leave the cap off so the air has somewhere to go, and point the thing up when you inject so gravity and air pressure doesn't squirt the glue all over the floor.

If you just cut the back off the pen, what usually happens when you squeeze it is you end up coating the back of your hand in a giant blob of glue, because the liquid seeks the path of least resistance, and it takes more force to go through the small tip than it does to go out through the big hole at the end of the pen.

In case you were wondering...yeah, the back of my right hand was hairless for a little while after I learned that the hard way when filling glue pens with an extremely tacky glue that I liked better.

-Mel

LOL...you just saved my hand

In related news...I found a small cache of UHU Office Pens and ordered around 30 packs of them The source is mine I tell you! MINE!

I will be switching to Elmer's Non-Wrinkle Glue Pen though when these run out.

Have been a devotee of Aleen's up to now, but willing to try the Elmer's No Wrinkle. Just have to find a place to find it now.

Fracking Glue Junkies! Sniffing the stuff isn't good enough now?! Syringes & injecting....










Lord Abaddon of Wormwood

Scotch Clear Glue with 2 way applicator (2nd pic down). Its less than 5.00 at staples and has 1.6 fl oz(47ml).

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... adhesives/

Anyone have any experience with this glue? It has a precision tip and a sponge tip. It looks thicker than white glue.

I have one on my desk right now. It is OK in a pinch, but a bit too watery for my taste. It works better for shorter walls...my Cathedral Noctis is pretty warped from using this. Oh well, live and learn. Also, the glue leaked out of the precision tip into the cap, so it is now 1/2 full of glue...I am kinda aggravated and don't want to deal with a mess when I remove it, so I will prob just use the other end for floor tiles and then chuck it.

I'm in (desperate) need of glue suggestions.

Most (all?) of the suggested glue products are no longer available, even the Elmer's No-Wrinkle Dual Tip Glue Pen (their site no longer lists it). If possible, can someone supply a link to a good glue product being sold online, that's still available to purchase?

I live near a Michaels, a Hobby Lobby, and a JoAnn fabrics, each having many glue products, but since I'm a newbie I have no idea if any of them would work well.

Thank you!

Do you live near a Staples?

http://www.staples.com/office/supplies/ ... &langId=-1

When I saw that I could no longer attempt to get UHU glue pens (I never actually got a chance to try them out), I went down to staples and bought about 10 different glue products. I have not finished testing them all yet, but this product has been absolutely stellar. I think the price is wrong on the Web site - I remember $3.99/2 pack, but you will have to see. The width is perfect for gluing tabs and full 7x7's alike and they hold very well. I do spot-glue some really pesky stuff with a stronger stuff but by and large I have been using these and they have really sped up my building.

My sister (a graphic designer) has pointed me to Xyron, a higher-quality similar product, but I have not tested it yet. they have an applicator with a 3/8 inch tip, so I think that would work well, and it is refillable (the Staples ones are not).

Scotch also makes something similar.

Regular glue sticks work fine for me (store brand OfficeMax, Staples, etc.). Although I prefer the UHU glue sticks that I find at Michaels (and other craft stores).

Hi guys, I have been around for a while and mainly I just watch, however, being an Aussie and not having easy access to the apparently US-only glues often discussed here, I have done a fair bit of research over the years on the local market here to find Helmars bookbinding/scrapbooking glue: http://www.helmar.com.au/products/all_products/acid_free_glue.

Pros and Cons:

Pros:
1] high quality,
2] long lasting for years,
3] flexible for the times you bump or squash your models - the glue won't crack,
4] non-wrinkling
5] acid-free (Neutral pH),
6] non-toxic for your little ones,
7] sets clear,
8] non-yellowing - your models won't look like the dog used them as a tree in 10 years time
9] fast drying

Cons:
1] it is a white glue which usually means higher water content,
2] it doesn't come in a pen variant

The nice surprise regarding Con 1] is that Helmar make their glues with LESS water and more solids [from their site: Our PVA glues contains 50% solids content (active ingredient), Most other PVA glues only contain 30% - 40%]

Also:
HELMAR products are the only adhesives & aerosols in Australia that has been evaluated by the world renowned Duke University Medical Center's Division of Occupational and Environmental Medicine in North Carolina, USA and certified and approved for use by children. They are also certified NON-TOXIC & lead free ... (More info: http://www.helmar.com.au/products/facts_you_should_know!)

Sorry to sound like an advertisement but the more info you have, the easier the decision to make. (I wish I got royalties for this!)

Lastly, as mentioned by Denny, use glues thinly (I use a scraper or finger to spread the glue) but most importantly, burnish BOTH sides of the application to prevent warping.

I have built the Maiden and as anyone who knows its design, the front hull is curved. The glue has performed outstandingly with no warping or cracking apart due to the high tension in the folds and bends (the model has been together for over two years). It really does pay to be careful in your attention to detail.

The glue I have indicated here is available in the US as well.

I hope this helps some of you folks, as well as the numerous Aussies out there with similar glue problems.

Cheers,
- Griffonbait

I've used the UHU Office Pens a few times now.... hate them. The glue would be fine if it didn't put too much on. I'd like the applicator if, again, it didn't ooze too much glue out at a time. I found it to be fruastrating and a mess to deal with.

Had much better luck the last 4 times I've done models by using Locktite Super Glue GEL. The Gel version has much less water, stays where you put it (even on vertical edges), and bonds in 5-10 seconds (sometimes it bonds instantly, other times it takes 5 or so secs... not sure why) Also the applicator was nice; long narrow tip to really get in tight places but a large bottle with squeez-buttons on the side.

So far I've had the best results with that Locktite Super Glue GEL and UHU purple glue sticks. I'm skeptical of how long the glue stick adhesive will actually last but I know the super glue will outlast the paper =P I'll be pickign up some more of that gel type super glue!

I've engaged in some email with the UHU folks, here's their CSR rep on what replaces the office pen:




I've ordered a half-dozen of these, we'll see how they work.

I've gone through 5 tubes now of Scotch brand 'super glue' in GEL form. This stuff is great; I love it! So now I've tried Scotch and Loctite GEL form 'super glue'. The GEL form is great; much lower water content and stays right where you put it... even vertical and upside down. This stuff bonds instantly. Only drawbacks I've seen is gluing your fingers (I now use needle nose plyers a lot more), there is no time for last second adjustments (so not very friendly to new modelers), and I'm not sure how it would work on large surfaces. Most of what I do are precise glues on small areas as I do a lot of props so I end up just putting on small amounts of glue. However I'll find out soon enough on Thoumonts if it works well for doing more broad surfaces.

Just went to Michael's to get some more and I'm going to try a couple of different brands this time. Name brand Super Glue GEL and some generic brand of 'super glue' in GEL form. I'm hoping the generic stuff is just as good because it's about $1 cheaper per tube than any of the name brands.

Just be careful regarding the fumes. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate#Toxicity

Yeah, I've gotten my nostrils AND eyes stung pretty bad from CYA, without any contact in the bargain.

I dunno if this has been posted already, but 3M Scotch Quick Dry Adhesive works great. It's made for scrap-booking, is a low-moisture formula and has a fine tip nozzle for precise usage. I picked up a bottle from my local Target store for $4-ish. And while this was not only my first time using the glue, it was also my first build altogether, and this glue worked great.

Really? You know you're not supposed to sniff the glue right? =) I've used about 10 tubes of this stuff now and never any issues with my eyes, fumes, or other things of concern. I'm generaly quite prone to effects of things like this too; if there were any fumes coming off of this glue I'd be getting head aches and feeling sick. To date I've had no such side effects using it for hours on end in rooms as small as 15x20.

The tubes have tiny little openings (less than 1mm) so not many fumes are coming out from there (you can also put the cap back on; but I don't bother =). The only time any real amount of glue (and thus fumes) come out is when you are squirting it out and you really need very little of it to create a strong bond. Then you are squishing it between two folds of paper instantly so again hardly any fumes.

I'm all for being safe but lets be realistic. The hypersensitivity to things like this (CA, lead, CO2...) is getting so outragous that the natrual act of exhaling now produces a gas the EPA has classified as a pollutant... it's super glue and it's OK to use it with out a respirator =P

morganm, don't underestimate long term exposure. Considering these are our lifetime hobbies, it's about the same as painters exposing themselves to a lifetime of lead paint.

Maybe not as harmful, but you want to minimize your exposure either way. Some things never leave the body, and others take a lot of time to leave. So if it takes very little effort or cost to protect yourself, why not?

It's not the same and making such comparisons is more evidence to the hypersensitivity people have over these things; that's my point. Totally different than the example you give (I presume you mean canvas painters not mini-painters). They use hundreds of times more paint than the glue I use. It's all over their hands and other body parts in addition to any fumes.

Super glue GEL is perfectly safe to use. Keep the cap on it. For external use only =P You're not going to have adverse health effects if you use it properly.

Well, according to 3Ms posted MSDS on the super glue gel the rule is indeed, don't sniff the glue and don't get it in your eyes. Amusingly they seem confident that if you eat the stuff nothing emergency-room inducing will happen.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebse ... 1u666666--

With Zap-A-Gap (a liquid CY) I don't run into trouble unless I glue a wide surface or get hasty and blow on the glued joint. So my risks of exposure are worst when I'm working assembly line to finish a large project, and pretty nonexistent otherwise. I don't expect to get cornea cancer or something, it just stings.

That said, I want to try some gel type CY anyhow because I've never gotten a reasonable amount of liquid cyanoacrylate glue to bond my paper models. Excessive amounts yes.