Thanks for the tips everyone. I've heard references to the alternative systems of velcro, magnets, and D-link or something similar but haven't read up on them yet. If there are good threads discussing the options I'd appreciate a link, otherwise I'll come across them eventually. I've got a white foamcore 21x28 (well, 20x30 but I'll make it work) and my UHU glue pens so I'm going to get started on VW. I'll take it one set at a time.

rol ... I meant to point out that if you head over to the main WWG page and select either of the two kits that use the ProMasterboard kit, you can play a brief video that shows how the velcro boards are sued:

Click to get to the Chunky Dungeons set - then click to play the video

To see a little bit on how the Linx look/work, you can head to see Streets of Mayhem, and once again, click to play the movie. They don't actually mention the Linx, but in the first several piccys you see them lay out the streets and tracks, and you will notice wedge shapes bits missing. Then the next piccy all the linx have been put in.

Certainly not as good as having the actual instructions pdf, but at least it's a visual aid.

Steve

Does the mini-chunk set also include the full instructions for a pro-masterboard? I admit, that although I read about it a long time ago, I don't think I noticed it in that preview video until you pointed it out. It would be cool to give it a try sometime. Any idea of a good place to get velcro?

Arabin

Yes, the MiniChunk set comes with a ProMasterboard instructions pdf.

The file is nearly 1mb. It was formatted to be scrolled through, not printed, so the pdf says it is "1 page" but it's probably 4-5 pages in length if printed out. There are 11 photos showing the bits needed, how to measure out the 1" grid on the base, cutting up a pile of velcro bits, starting to lay them down, how to mount your pieces to foamcore and edge them, and put velcro on the bottom, and then finally how you then afix them to the master board.

Time is money to me, so I dodn't opt for the long rolls of velcroe you can buy cheaper. I have used the Scotch Reclosable Fasteners small blister packs (the cardboard is red). Part RF7121. The packs are 4" x 6" and hang on pegboard. Each one holds 24 7/8" squares. That size velcro square is perfect if you are considering doing this with dungeon pieces that may actually only be 1" square (with the bevel cut you won't have 1" on the base).

Can't seem to find them online at Office Depot (where I always purchase mine), but their packaging looks something like from Velcro. These run $4.29 for 24 and are more expensive (because of their name). The Scotch packs are cheaper by maybe a $1 a pack.

Okay, found a piccy on the net , but not from a site where you can orde them.

Anyway, that's what I use. Since I am not creating a base that has these things every square inch (I'm using them for Mayhem and only put the squares in the corners) it wasn't nearly as expensive. Still, they are not cheap. I like how they grip and DO NOT MOVE though, so that's why I use them. It took me 3 packs each to handle my 2'x4' base boards (each can hold 3 tiles by 6 tiles).

Steve

It sounds like a really good idea, but one I'm not sure I'll ever get to. I have loads of tiles printed off, using the original paperlinx method, and always do a different layout whenever I set up the board. For me, not only would I have the expense of velcro and the need to store a large board somewhere rather than small tiles which fit in a box, but also I'd hae to reprint all the existing tiles, base them all on more foamcore, etc.

I wish I had done it before, but I think it's too late for me realistically.

Arabin

Understoon Arabin. It kinda depends on (a) when you start with Worldworks, and (b) which products you go with initially.

My first use of WWG was Mayhem tiles, and I just printed them on cardstock, flipped them over, and taped them together to form my first "mat" No need for glue, but not easy to change the layout either. Still I played a number of games on that one city layout, and had fun.

But I ended up taking a closer look at Chunky Dungeons instructions, and really liked the whole velcro thing. Didn't want to go with a foamcore base though, I wanted something heavier (so when you bumped it things wouldn't go flying). Settled for 2x4 pegboard panels. They are hefty and have nice holes drilled at 1" increments. So I didn't need to mark them up to place the velcro.

I trimmed them to a slightly shorter length to properly hold 3 tiles wide by 6 tiles long. They also have an edge which allows me to add some sort of border (haven't done that part yet). End result is a 6x6 tile layout.

If I had gone Linx I certainly wouldn't change now. If I had it to do all over again, I might play around with magnetic strips more before making a final decision. The Linx method appeals to me, but I was worried that tiles are NEVER exactly 7" square, and after you cut the Linx notches, getting other tiles to properly line up and "wedge" properly might be more of a frustration that I wanted to deal with. I don't have that issue with Velcro.

Steve

I do have problems lining up the tiles sometimes, but it helps to have non-linked tiles in the middle. It breaks up the linkage without reducing the cohesiveness(?) of the layout.

I find foamcore to be perfect for me. It adds sturdiness and doesn't slip around when joined together... unless you have a heavier handed gamer playing with you (remembering a demo I ran) and the best part is that it's light enough to easily store. I keep all my tiles on their sides in a box and it's very light.

Anyway, the good thing about this hobby is that all of the options are right, none are wrong... some are just more right for each individual.

Arabin