Hi All, finally got it so my buildings are coming out fairly straight and decided to take the plunge and make my terrain boards 2’x2’ sections with roads already in place so I would have a 20 ½” square to make up interchangeable boards sorta like “The City Planning thread”

The Problem I have is the Black foam core warped (I even had weight on it while it was drying.

The Glue I’m using is Scotch Quick- Dry Adhesive (for scrap booking) works real fast and used it on 110 weight card stock and I’ve had no problems with warping.

I’m new to paper crafting not new to terrain building… I even crowned the foam core so I started with the curve pointing down…

Anyway to bring it back to straight?

I have moved the pictures over to the Zombie Land picture thread Thanks for all the help!!!

It looks like you're using the same sort of foam-core board that I use for most of my stuff. That stuff definitely warps like nothing else that I've seen. It works well for anything under 6" by 6", but beyond that you're going to run into massive warping issues.
Magius out.

First off: That's a nice-looking build!

I had the same problem with warping when I started building my masterboards.

I overcame it - or at least mitigated the problem - by using velcro squares on the masterboard and on the modular corners. Pictures can be seen , check the first post (02-07-2009). This also served to help keep the corners from jostling around when the table or the board gets bumped (which tends to happen a lot).

Most craft stores or home improvement stores have the Velcro "Sticky Back" squares for $2 - $3 (USD) for a package of 12 or 16. In my opinion, it's well worth it.

That's my 2 cents' worth.

Cheers!

Well thanks for all the advice defiantly will go with adhesive sticker paper from now on (that’s what I did the road's....)

It’s been overnight since I glued card stock to the bottom of the city park.....and it worked

Bent it back as the glue tension warped it the other way... go figure…. so much so I had to reapply weight to keep it from over bending checked it this morning and it's perfectly straight / flat now, have to go to work and will remove the weights this afternoon..... now off to fix the State Building

I really didn't want to re-cut and reglue all the little brick walls (my finger still hurts) but I would of because I'm that picky about my stuff

Thanks for all the nice comments…if only I could quit slipping when I use the sharpie while edging

A couple of things that might help.
First when edging always have the printed side facing away from you so when you slip the unprinted side will get the mark.

Second about the warping of the foam board. In wood working if you have a severly warped board you can make a kerf cut on the back side of the piece a little deeper than half the thickness of the board to help flatten the warp out. It might work on the foam board tiles too. Cut a very narrow strip out of the back side of the foam board from one side to the other. A v-groove would probably work and would be easiest to cut with a knife.

So now this is strange the bending elf’s came to my house while I was at work...

The City Hall board is laying perfectly flat..... I swear I didn't "do" anything to it!!

I took off the weight on the city park board and there is a slight curve down and I can live with that who knows maybe the bending elf’s will reappear and straighten it out for me...

Well off to Build the Gas Station & Quickie Mart, Parking lot combo (board 3)
Again thanks for all the input with out it I might have glued my hands together by now!!

I agree with Robby. I have had great success with a light spray of water and then use weights to flatten it out again.

WOW, this is great. Today was the last day of my 4 days off. Needless to say I spent it bashing up the castle kit. I am running "Eye for an Eye". The intro module for Warhammer FRP 3ed. This kit is going to work out fine.

So on to the main bit. There is a lot of talk about glue, So first off the lower the moisture consent the better is correct. The first wall I built had lots of issues. Warped, bubbled, score marks split and broke. Most of all not tilting when put on base.

Here is how I corrected it. First back to the scratch build skill set. It just so happens that the 1" walls are just thick enough to accommodate the pink insulation board, How convenient. First redo and the wall was very usable. As for the glue, I am using the "archival" Elmer's' glue stick. The best way to judge moisture content is by how "thick" or "thin" the glue is. The glue stick is "lip balm" consistency.

The big dif. here from adhesive paper is cost. I have not used it yet but will do a run with some to try it.

Moisture is the bane of paper. Foam in the core of the board provides "stiffness". The kerf cut is a good idea. Any area with high humidity will also warp a board. Use a dehumidifier I too am a wood worker and am putting those skills to use. My floor tiles are Masonite. Sandwiched between mat boards. Using the connector tab template from the LinX system they are very stiff and durable.

One last tip one moisture and durability. Don't get me wrong here. I love building models from scratch. But, IT CAN BE EITHER BE COSTLY OR TIME CONSUMING. I LOVE this terrain system. With a SmartCuter (see separate post) This building system allows for rapid and I do mean RAPID production and prototyping.

However after all that work there is one last step to do. Protect your work. If moisture is the enemy then "seal" your project. After all, spills do happen. Use an "archive" spray sealant. Every low moisture consent and standard finishes.

When the project is finished and on the table I will post it.