My first thought when you talk about all the warping is that it sounds like "too much" glue is suspect. I don't have warping of Foam Core. But when I first started paper modeling I did. And it was mainly because of too much glue or an uneven spread of it.

Using 110lb GP Card Stock I only occasionally get some warp on long sweeping flat areas. But I usually press all my pieces in a heavy book for a few minutes(after pressing and burninshing). Then I work on something else while it dries completely.

On cutting and assembling. I always aim to cut dead center of the black lines, or dotted lines, or white lines. Then I am carefull when I fold a score, because sometimes I cut too deep and the printed paper seperates from the backing causing a slight variance that- when compounded to other parts. Will end up with a bad slant, gap or misalignment later.

I've not purchased the Maiden(YET!). But I do have ArenaWorks, ChunkyD, DWClassic and CastleWorks Ultimate. And I've occasionaly had misalignment troubles, but it was (*usually)due to a small mistake on my part.

When you say "White Areas" showing. You are edging your pieces right?

I also use CraftBond glue(haven't purchased the UHU yet) and it is wet. So I only use the thin nibbed end. And have learned with practice how quickly to move across the paper and how hard to squeeze...but this was trial and error. (This is how I first warped my Foam Core doing the ProBoard flooring....oops!)

-Floyd

* I've come across a few pieces (The steps in particular) in ArenaWorks that the fold lines are seemingly incorrect.

From personal experience I cut up to the black line without removing it. When scoring I try to score as close to the middle of the line as possible. To this date I haven't had a misaligned model.

When gluing, excess glue will dry at different rates through the surface and cause warping. To prevent this try to apply glue in a sparing manner. What I've started doing that works magnificently but can be expensive is using 3m spray on glue. This will give you a superb bond without any warping. A spray can might run about $8. Which is the reason it might become expensive. I only use it on large areas like wall which require lots of glue. One swift spray in each direction usually cover a large area and as soon as you fold the paper it bonds rock hard.

If you choose to use that method make sure that you have scored and bent the model before applying the glue. Scoring and bending will be horrible to do after the glue has set.

The Maiden is a tough model. It is still doable but if this is your first foray into paper modeling it can be daunting.

Good luck. I hope this helps. Have fun!

I am using GP 110# stock.... I have done some cardstock modelling, but I have always had somewhat the same problems... When you are making chunky dungeons the difference is so small that it just gets absorbed in the small models... On the maidens, it seems to compound itself.

I am edging, but usually I only have to edge the edges.... the white parts that are showing are where the outside of the hull doesn't completely cover the inside once it's folded over. I guess more practice is in order.... I've tried UHU, Craft Bond, Spray glue, rubber cement, and white glue... results:

UHU tends to dry brittle... making my models kinda crispy....
I think the Craft Bond that I'm using is too wet...
Spray Glue... well, I'm sorts hirsute (sp?) meaning that after about 2 pieces I need to scrub my arms because my hair is getting all sticky... ugly scene...
rubber cement is too thick...
White glue is too wet....

I think I may be using too much UHU, and that may be causing some of the problem, but I have a difficult time making sure everything is covered to the edges... so if I use too little,things start slowly falling apart after a couple of uses....

Thanks for the advice...
I have the entire hull done for the first maiden, but I need to have 2 done by next Saturday... wish me luck....