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| Making Ice caves http://www.worldworksgames.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1189 |
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| Author: | Fl0ydski [ 06-01-2005, 07:36 PM ] |
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I like the first as well... But maybe you could go into the [Adjust Menu/Selective Color] and cool down the warm colors in the metal FL door panel. Pick the neutrals and drop out some of the yellow and magenta...add some cyan. That way it would feel more like a cool steel door... Or maybe do the blue color adjustment as above(like your 3rd example), but go in and "fade" it back about 70%. Then just add some frosty edges to it. Something like this... Cool Stuff Aleph. -Floyd |
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| Author: | Aleph13 [ 06-01-2005, 07:55 PM ] |
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| Author: | Fl0ydski [ 06-01-2005, 08:36 PM ] |
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| Author: | EbbTide [ 06-01-2005, 10:01 PM ] |
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The first one definitely. |
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| Author: | Aleph13 [ 06-01-2005, 10:53 PM ] |
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| Author: | Gamesmith Denny [ 06-02-2005, 01:50 AM ] |
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Lets call this a part of the WorldWorks "giving back" series. I love the energy you guys bring forward with creative kitbashing. I've retooled some of the texturing on the door for you guys. Wish I had time to do more (A full ice cave is still on my list of to-do's). Enjoy 
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| Author: | robby [ 06-02-2005, 01:55 AM ] |
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I like the second one, personally. 
Denny - those doors look really cool. |
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| Author: | bayushi_shogo [ 06-02-2005, 02:02 AM ] |
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Yes...that why all we love you...give more to me...!!! 
But this will last nothing...we'll begin complaining for the new release 
Thanks...and as a prove of loyalty to you as soon as FL:expansion is in rpgshop i will wrap it with caves... |
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| Author: | johnnygs [ 06-02-2005, 02:14 AM ] |
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| Author: | longreach [ 06-02-2005, 02:33 AM ] |
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| Author: | TheAuldGrump [ 06-02-2005, 04:29 AM ] |
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| Author: | bayushi_shogo [ 06-02-2005, 04:34 AM ] |
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| Author: | Dkarr [ 06-02-2005, 05:20 AM ] |
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| Author: | Conaill [ 06-02-2005, 11:42 AM ] |
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| Author: | Spoo [ 06-02-2005, 01:48 PM ] |
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| Author: | Conaill [ 06-02-2005, 02:09 PM ] |
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| Author: | Aleph13 [ 06-02-2005, 03:49 PM ] |
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| Author: | Aleph13 [ 06-02-2005, 04:49 PM ] |
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Okay, here's all the three original "icy" mods, with the fourth being Denny's "snowy" mod. The fifth is Fl0ydski's "cold steel" door. I'm seriously torn between Denny's and Fl0ydski's! |
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| Author: | Conaill [ 06-02-2005, 04:59 PM ] |
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| Author: | Aleph13 [ 06-02-2005, 05:57 PM ] |
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Heck yeah! It looks great! I printed out some ice caves, and Denny's snow door & doorframe. I'll build 'em tonight and try to get the pics up. As an aside, since I recently changed printer carts, I had a part-dead cart lying around. The only color empty is yellow! So, I printed the ice caves with that cart, saving some ink in the process. While I was at it, I decided to print a sheet of the ice caves on transparency. Word to the wise: Pay attention to which side's up!  At 50 cents/sheet, that was an expensive oops.
But, the correct one looks pretty neat. I'll play around with it, and see what comes up. |
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| Author: | Aleph13 [ 06-03-2005, 12:05 AM ] |
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I played with 'em both!
The camera's batteries died before I could get a decent shot of the ice caves, though.  They're charging now, so I'll post pics tomorrow.
I did, however, get some shots of the transparency ice caves!  Thanks to Qwijoma for suggesting this! It looks really neat, but it's an incredible pain in the butt.
You see, it's practically impossible to glue transparencies to transparencies. (At least, not with super glue or UHU) So, I cut out a narrow "U" shaped cardstock border to slip in between the sandwich fold. I did 1/8", because anything narrower tended to curl. I used binder clips to hold everything perfectly in place, and removed one clip. In that space, I took my Zap-A-Gap CA+ and put light drops up against the edge, so the glue seeped into the crack, bonding the cardstock to both sheets of transparency paper. Once dry (I gave it about 30 sec to 1 min, depending on how much glue went in), I removed another binder clip on the other side of the wall. Spacing it out like that allowed for even more drying time before I stressed that join. Once everything was solid, I cut out the cave openings, cutting that section of the "U" frame out, too. Here's the final wall (the minis were painted by my wife!). This one shows the textures of the wall a bit better. The "double vision" effect is actually pretty cool, and gives a sense of depth to the wall. Here's a closeup, to show the "U" frame in better detail. |
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| Author: | bayushi_shogo [ 06-03-2005, 12:28 AM ] |
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Wonderfull...I have to try this...any recomendation in the transparency...Is that something I have to try with my Canon Pixma 4000...I would to use it with the FL...but I like the look of it...but maybe for something less big (a stalactite or stalacmite...not a full wall) . good work |
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| Author: | Conaill [ 06-03-2005, 10:05 AM ] |
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Dang! Looks great, but it does sound like we need a better glue solution for transparencies. I suggested in the ice cave thread to lightly dust the back of the transparency with white spray paint for a more snowy/semi-opaque look. Seems like that might be a good idea to make the textures stand out better as well. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the pictures! |
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| Author: | Spoo [ 06-03-2005, 11:43 AM ] |
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| Author: | Conaill [ 06-03-2005, 01:09 PM ] |
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| Author: | Aleph13 [ 06-03-2005, 04:35 PM ] |
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Actually, while I was at work today, I thought of Mags' obsession with double-stick tape. I wonder how well this would hold in the long term? As for hot glue, I must say that I'm far too spastic for accuracy with the stuff. I'd love to see someone else try it, though, even on just a couple scrap pieces of transparency. My only concern would be that it might be too hot and melt the plastic. I like the idea of some light white dusting behind the sheets. Shouldn't go too heavy, though (the transparencies look identical to cardstock with a solid white background). |
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| Author: | Aleph13 [ 06-03-2005, 06:53 PM ] |
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Batteries are charged, and here's some shots! First, the ICWorks (get it? ) on cardstock. This set would be super cool as a full-size winter scene!
Next up: the long-awaited and debated (and hopefully celebrated) DOOR! The top pic is the original FL door. The second pic is with Denny's snow door & frame kitbash. Oh, and I've already 'bashed the Photoshop file to include both sides of the door (the back only needed to be flipped vertically to match), and a set of doors that are snowy on both sides!
Denny's kitbash of Paul's FL door & frame are the perfect touch to the ice caves! --------- I also wanted to talk a bit more about what inspired me to do the transparency version of ICWorks. It doesn's have to be the whole cave system. I was planning on doing a single wall (or room), and having a room beyond the icy wall that the PCs could see into. This is a pic of a mini as seen through a single sheet of the wall section (no sandwiching): Here's a shot of the same mini as seen through a loosely sandwiched wall section: Overall, which do you think looks better? I'm still partial to the sandwiched look, as it makes what's behind it look a bit more obscured and mysterious. |
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| Author: | Conaill [ 06-03-2005, 07:23 PM ] |
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Looking great, Aleph! I'd vote for the double thickness for your Wall of Ice. Looks much cooler (heh... cooler )
Hmm... too bad CaveWorks doen't have a stone bridge. A semitransparent ice bridge (with cracks at strategic locations) would make for a nice addition to your ice caves. Ohh here's an idea... in photoshop, take a 1 or 2-tile wide strip of icy floor tiles, and attach your icicles to both sides. Try to blend the transition between floor and icicles somewhat. Print on transparency and cut out. Bend (but do not sharply crease & fold) the icicles so they're almost at 90 degree with respect to the top of the bridge. Bow the path itself lengthwise, so figures have a slight tendency to slide off the bridge. A bit straight for a natural bridge, but it'll do. You may need to use double-thickness transparencies to get something strong enough to stand some metal figs on it. You could also make the bridge arch slightly, but that would take more kitbashing in photoshop (need to keep those icicles pointing straight down!) |
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| Author: | Aleph13 [ 06-03-2005, 07:44 PM ] |
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I like the bridge idea. You could just do the CW bridge frozen (icy or snowy), like the earlier picture in this thread, but I think a "Chunky" bridge (about 1/2" to 1" thick) would look the best. You could use the CW floor tiles, and make one really easy, with sloped ends to prop on either side of the chasm. As for the bending, I have some minis that I would be seriously peeved to see fall. I think I'll skip that one! 
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| Author: | Conaill [ 06-03-2005, 07:52 PM ] |
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