Is it possible to have a card pdf without images at the top-front of the card? I've tried removing the image (as I'd like to add my own) and it works ok except for two things:

1/. The inner circle is rough and spoils the otherwise excellent artwork.



2/. You lose the ability to directly enter text through the pdf.

there is a compilable pdf for each kind of card OR they used a layered pdf?

Saw that it was done first thing when I got to work, its paid for and now to build this week end. Glad I didn't through out that cereal box now.

*sigh*

Just printed it out. I see we've changed our standards again, so that score lines are no longer dotted, have we?

"Cut through green lines. Score/fold solid lines. Reverse score dotted lines."

Except you also use solid lines as cut lines. On the same pages.

I love you guys, but you gotta get this **** figured out. I'm not unhappy I bought it (and I'm about to sit down at my table to build it) but this just makes you look... sloppy. Where's the consistency?

To be completely honest, I hadn't realized there was a change on that front until just now. This was our first collaborative project utilizing a newly refined workflow. Some formatting changes occurred due to the way we process the design in different software packages.

Consistency is VERY important to me and we'll be sure to work out the bugs as we move forward.

Bought and downloading....

Got mine too!

Just printed it out here at work, the graphics are great guys. Can't wait to put it together this weekend.
(Consistency is our friend ) Understand work flow from different views Denny. This is nice addition to your store. -D²

There's a mistake in the instructions; the piece in the instructions labelled "04" is labelled "06" for both halves in the actual arena PDF. "04" as a label does not exist anywhere in the arena PDF.

Green cut lines are inside textured areas. Look at any TLX floor tile and you'll see what I mean--perimeter cut lines are always black, while cut lines located inside textured areas are green. I didn't deviate from standards there.

The fold lines being solid--I've always done it like that. Brio, Interceptor, HL 300, Podtel, my old Ebbles catalog. Nobody's ever complained. Matter of fact, the one time I did a model with dotted fold lines, that resulted in an epic soap-in-a-sock beatdown from my customers.

Bottom line, as the line key at the top of the page tells you what you need to know about the lines, there shouldn't be a problem. Dotted fold lines are not a good fit for everything, and the entire point of the line key at the top of the page is to inform you of line conventions on a per-page basis. For example, if I did a bright green wall, any interior cut lines would likely be a different color, and the line key would then say "Cut on red lines" or whatever.

The fact that every page has its own line key *is* consistent. The requirement that each page have a line key *is* the standard. If the line types were meant to be a global standard that applied to every single thing we do ever, with no consideration for odd-man-out scenarios, then the line key would be one page in the instructions and not a redundant element applied to every single page.



The instructions are correct, it's the model PDF that's wrong. That part should indeed be 04. (What happened was we had to raise the bumpers surrounding the arena itself from 0.75" to 1", so those frames were redone. I copied a layer group containing the page text/parts numbers from one to the other, and apparently I forgot to change the parts number for the left side half.)

I'm going to fix that and upload it again in a few minutes. Thanks for pointing it out!

More my mistake in checking the files...I didnt really check the instructions, except for a build order..and went straight to a machine cut and build (my only excuse...it was 3 am when I started building this) Sorry

Okay, I made a graphic that illustrates my point. I can figure out what to do, because I'm an experienced card stock model assembler. Someone who isn't, though, is going to look at the examples the below and wonder: what am I supposed to do where? Look at the recent TLX Thumont's bay window thread. The original poster looked at the bay window and was completely lost on where to begin, much less figuring out where to cut/score/fold. And that was a lot less involved than this model.



You have, in very close proximity to each other, solid black and grey lines that mean three different things: cut, score, and ignore. And it's not at all clear, using the instruction key on the page, which is which.

I'm pointing this out because I like your products, by the way. If I didn't I wouldn't be buying them and building them.

I'm glad I didn't get that model ... confusing!

I don't know what they have planned, but I found the little access hole to be a great place to poke a pen down into, to hold the bottom of the corners in place while the glue set!

First of all, I think I need to apologize because upon re-reading it, my previous reply comes across as pretty rude. Just in case you took it that way, I apologize for that.



Perimeter lines are straightforward, as you can't separate parts from the sheet without cutting through those. Interior cut lines are differentiated by a color that stands out against the texture. I confess I'm not 100% enamored with that because I've had color-blind customers in the past, but in the absence of a better solution, I continued with that convention.

Fold lines are usually straightforward, especially when you can see them between or along glue flaps, or where you can see that a part obviously needs to fold up along a certain edge. Sometimes they're not as straightforward (valley folds/reverse scores come to mind), and in those cases using a different line setting is helpful. I used a white dashed line for the drawer and card tray parts because black was too dark.

On the other hand, the "do nothing" areas you've pointed out in your diagram are gluing zones, and some of them are a bit small for the glue icon. I *can* see how the black border around those would throw off a beginner, especially when there's no glue icon in there. Should I simply have turned off the black border around those zones entirely? Would that have made a difference?

Actually, it's not, really. The instructions - which are free to dl upthread - make it rather clear where to cut, fold, etc; quite apart from the line key on the page. (Personally, I really like the explosion-style instructions.)

If you can cope with TLX, you can cope with the Roll Arena. I don't consider myself a paper model expert - most of the models I build aren't that complex - but I think that line key + instructions makes the Arena not too complicated (though admittedly more complicated than, say, MiniChunk).

Whether the line key used is consistent with other WWG products (or could be more so) is another - imo mostly CI and stylistic - question. I get the criticism, but - again imo - it may be that it sounds more harsh than it's perhaps intended.

My 2 cents, and now I'm going to bed

I couldn't wait for a free day to start building this, so I picked it up and started this evening. I was able to get most of step 2 done - it's a big step! - and I am really impressed with how easily the pieces go together and how well things just fit. This is really fun to build!

Bought, downloaded and BONUS! a long weekend to build and enjoy. To be honest, I did know I needed SOMETHING like this

I'm n the middle of building this little beauty, and came across a point that others might be interested in.
As I glue together the three different "bins" for the card storage drawer, I'm noticing how bendable the whole thing is. I might end up putting a peice of ceral box along the length of the bottom to give it a bit more backbone.

I just finished my roll arena this evening, and documented a couple notes I thought might be helpful. One thing was to recommend at least a layer of cardstock under the card trays - it's super floppy otherwise, isn't it? It's still bendy with one layer of cardstock, but at least now I don't feel so afraid that it will come to pieces when I pull it out. If cereal box board fits well enough, that'd be even better. The good thing is, I suppose, that the box can be on a table when you pull the tray out full of cards...

Thanks for the support everyone! We're really happy to see the Roll Arena attract a following. That bodes well for future expansion

Any chance for generic, imageless cards?

My 6-year-old said "Is that covered in blood?" to which I replied "No - they just spilled Cool Aid on the table." He seemed to think this made perfect sense, and that was that.

LOL! I love it!

I almost finished building my first RollArena model, and I already gathered enough heavy cardstock to make another three!

As much as I'd wish to, I have close to zero artistic skill, so I've already scrapped the further project: retexturing the set for modern gaming.
I play some WW2 themed skirmish games (1-48 Combat and Dust Tactics), and having a concrete bunker-like (or a reinforced crate with battle weathered textures) RollArena would be TEH AWESOME.

So I'm really looking forward to a "modern-style" kitbash.

Oh, we definitely want to do genre-specific texture variations. We're planning to revisit that idea when our plates clear up a little bit, so kitbashing won't be necessary.

Eagerly looking forward for them!

Ohhhh, If you did them right they could sit on the table as part of the terrain. A giant burned out bunker for 40k/wargames, an ancient monolith for fantasy games, that just opens up some many ideas.

EDIT: Seriously, do you ever expect your plates to clear with the way you and Denny keep spring new ideas?

I think we can answer that just by summarizing as follows: "When we're not so busy with this stuff, we'll get busy on other stuff."

Roll Arena Fun Tip #1: If you have a pdf print driver you can switch your printer to pdf and "print" your cards to a new pdf effectively saving your text.

Mivrosoft OneNote comes with a pdf print driver (I think) and so does a few free pdf creator soft ware. Of course Adobe Acrobat comes with one as well.