As a general rule ALL model sets are 100% 1" compatible and in fact were designed from the ground up with pure 1" compatibility in mind. CastleWorks Ultimate (although perfectly usable in a 1" format) suffered a bit from being designed first as a 1.5" clix based set and then being altered to 1" compliance. That meant that some things needed to be shifted a bit to get it working at 1" within the same general footprint. I'll have to dig around and find out what happened to those 1" kitbashes though...

So, fear not, everything else is pure 100% 1" with additional grid sizes and alterations added to that format (not the other way around).

In terms of Hinterland, I think you might be surprised at how easy it is. If you're looking for a good entry level starter set I would suggest picking up "Lair of the Dragon God" if only because it has solid instructions and easy build elements: http://www.worldworksgames.com/store/in ... cts_id=103 (the Dragon is hard but that's about it). On the extremely easy end of the scale the "Deadly Encounters" combo: http://www.worldworksgames.com/store/in ... ucts_id=31 is a good starter but it doesn't have instructions (doesn't really require them). Use the free beginners guide with video tutorials: http://www.worldworksgames.com/store/in ... pages_id=4 for additional help.

Hope that helps!

I do believe that Interior Works: Castles and Keeps is truly 1" friendly, because I have it and used it twice now. It's also not a very difficult set, so I can safely - from a noob viewpoint - recommend it as an beginner set.

Yup, that's a good suggestion.

Yeah, I mean to 1"/28mm minis, they look a bit on the thick side.

Which basing technique are you referring to? With VillageWorks, I find it best to base each wall on foamcore for stability and add a bit of foamcore to the inside of the bottom floor to line up the top and/or roof. Have not yet made master-tiles like the Mayhem line, though. The main thing that has changed is that every piece has a foamcore base that interlocks with any other piece.

Denny explains it very well .

Taking a page from woodworking I decided to make a jig from the left over .08 gauge chipboard I had left over from a custom Carcassonne project I was working on. Anyways, I want work out some way to easily cut the linx bowtie from the board without needing the Linx base at all. Then I can use sticky paper to put the masterboard top on (KaneLinx ... I'm assuming that's you).

So you want to cut the Linx slots from the base without having to attach another piece to your base? Is that right? Easiest way to do that would be with temporary double stick tape. Scrap booking section of any store that has one will have that. Unless I missunderstand?

I'm not sure if you follow or not. So to be on the safe side I'll over explain the hell out of the idea. This is all in regard to CWU and the edges of it's 1" LinX bases. There are two possible edge length with a LinX cut, a 6" and a 3". So I want to be able to take the cut out the rectangle, put it in this jib thing and do the LinX cut. So to achieve this I will have to make two such jigs, one for 3" and one for 6" edges.

This will apply to the 3" as well. Print the 3x6 and cut it out and then use it to cut out a LinX slot from along the middle of a factory edge of the chipboard (it is straight) then line up the the printed (and cut) base so that the 6" edge's LinX slot lines up with the slot cut into the chipboard. Glue down strips of the chip board to frame the printed base along a side and the back edge.

Now I can take a pre-cut 3x6 or 6x6 piece of foam core and quickly determine where the slot goes and then since the chipboard is thick enough I can use it as a straightedge to make the initial cut into the foam core.

It seems like a lot of work but it really shouldn't be, I'll try to tonight and give a picture up soon.

Hey Lakoda! Good to see I have begun to spark interest.


I personally haven't built anything from that set (I built Gothic Realms, Thoumont's and ExteriorWorks: Hinterland along with a few random props from a few other sets). I really like how Gothic worked out (and have actually been building some more of it while I decide what to do for my next review).

I would say that you should take a look at the picture gallery on the site here and pick and choose what you think you might need.

Also, don't forget to post pics...progress pics are great too.

Hi Talae! Yeah, my wife is *thrilled* I found another project to take up the kitchen table with.

I'm all about pictures...check this out....5 minutes of work and had I taken 20 it would have been flawless.



Not bad for a proof of concept. Granted the scrap foam core is something like 4.5x22 but who's measuring, with a 6x6 it would work nicely I think and save me some time.

{edit: clicky image for bigger image}

CWU is the only set I know of that uses 3" tiles. The newer sets all use straight 7x7 ground tiles, or 7.5x7.5 if they are using clix.


Also for villageworks I don't find foamcoring the walls at all necessary if you put interiors on them. Frankly their interior are small enough without using that extra space.