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Materials ? for WarMaHordes
I've purchased these (Hinterlands, Himmelveil Streets, and Thoumont's, so far) primarily for my miniature war-gaming - we use 1" grid magnetic chalkboard for pen-n-paper gaming.
So - my armies have a few of the older 'jacks- the metal ones. I don't particularly plan on replacing them with plastics; some models, like character 'jacks, are heavy even though they are plastic/metal combined.
What I'm asking is, considering that, can I build my tiles normally? Or does that make foam-core an imperative? I ask because I don't want to do the hours of work to have it collapse, but I don't want to spend more time and money than I have to, y'know?
Case in point - I recently had a game where my 'caster was up a hill. My opponent ran a light 'beast up to her, used a spell to move his 'lock in, then used the feat to summon his two heavy 'beasts. Minimally, there were 2 small based metal figures, 1 medium based metal figure, and 2 large based metal figures on that hill. And that was before I counter-attacked! I have trouble believing that would work on the Hinterlands hill - but I've never done card-stock modeling before... So I put the question to you folks!
WorldWorks Moderator Joined: 09-30-2006, 12:34 AM Posts: 3934 Location: New Zealand
Properly designed cardstock terrain (such as WWG does) is surprisingly strong, and should handle the scenario you mentioned without any problem. However, you do need to follow the build instructions to get that strength.
For TLX sets (e.g. the ones you're using) you need to use foamcore for the ground/floor tiles. This is because TLX uses the rigidity/strength of foamcore to feature flat ground/floor tiles that are both strong and wonderfully modular. (Without foamcore, floors would need to be bulky box/I builds severely restricting their size and modularity.) The benefits are well worth it.
Foamcore is a bit more expensive, fortunately TLX is designed to also work with the cheaper 3/16" (5mm) foamcore (which is what almost everyone here uses) rather than just 1/4" foamcore.
IIRC, some people have used other materials instead of foamcore (e.g. 5mm plastic board salvaged off old real-estate signs). However if you're buying new, 3/16" (5mm) foamcore usually works out cheapest.
Moderator posts are in green oraquamarine. My posts are my personal opinion only and do not represent the official view of WorldWorksGames.
Boiler Joined: 06-01-2009, 11:22 AM Posts: 394 Location: U.S. Colorado
The floor tiles you are using are not very good at spanning distances of 18" or more. That said, it will still probably hold all those minis and maybe twice as many, just expect a uncomfortable sag. Put a column under that, I would say, no problem, not even a sag.
Another thing I must add. I once say a demonstration of a bridge someone here made. Simply card stock, no foam board. I think the bridge was a foot long if I remember correctly, and an inch or maybe two wide. It spanned the foot and carried an incredible amount of metal minis. Like 18 if I remember correctly. Man, I am sticking my neck our here if I am off, but that is what my ancient brain remembers. lol All it was was a piece of card stock, bent to form the two sides and then sandwich folded back on the sides. I was stunned at the demonstration. I didn't try to see if it worked, I was convinced enough that I would have no fear I needed to do something similar. I think the Deadfall set has a similar piece in it.
Then there is always the Master board method. Just use a single piece of foam bard and cut the edges of the interior pieces and just glue them down. Saving the fold over flaps and cut outs for the edges. I have used this for my Windy Inn which I found uncomfortably floppy as it was 21" long. It wasn't so much how it played and held weight, as I had a column in the middle that preformed excellently, it was the picking the entire floor up and taking it off and putting it back on several times a night. The Master board made it so much more comfortable for me.
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