I figured, as these things are really what drove me nuts as a beginner, what I still am, really. These are things that, while people mentioned them, I didn't understand quite perfectly.

1. Dry fit your pieces, if at all possible. Some are very exacting, while others are pretty forgiving.

2. Score VERY lightly. just barely brake the surface of the paper. This has caused me no ends of fits as I try to edge the score I've created, and its a flappy and open. it sucks a lot. Score lightly, for you are scoring on my dreams.

3. Edge. Then Construct. This is key. it makes it so that you're not trying to score Inside, outside, and all around the model. Over-edging is much, much better than under edging. This includes coloring the tabs, and sometimes the back of the piece, Also, make sure that you're edging with the back of the piece towards you. that way if you slip, you slip onto the white side of the model that no one will see.

4. Buy a Cutting Mat. Seriously, these keep the life of the blades you buy to a maximum. otherwise, if your cutting on cardboard or wood, your looking and a few hours of life on a blade, as opposed to many hours.

anyone have anything They have done, or that you'd recommend?

You covered most of the major ones in my book.


A few more:

Use good glue. Find one that has minimal water content, to avoid warpage, but maximum staying power. The last thing you want is your model to fall apart a year or three later.

Change Blades Frequently. I always change them too late, after I've been struggling with cutting for a few pieces. Don't do this. Once the blade stops cutting like butter, its probably time to replace it. Don't wait until it tears the paper. Life is too short for a dull blade.

When you glue things, set them under books with heavy weight on them for at least a day. It helps to put the stuff that's drying between wax paper.

With Terrainlinx, it's not so much an issue, but if you've got to glue things at a right angle, use Legos or Duplos to hold them while they dry.

With edging, going darker vs lighter color-wise is usually a good idea.

Have what you need at hand. Walking any distance with a freshly glued model in hand is not recommended.

Know when to stop. Tired hands and eyes are not fit to handle and direct a razor blade.

Quit cut-scoring and switch to using an old black ball-point pen with little or no ink left. Use that to depress your fold lines. Creates less edging work.

Interesting, I may try this on some props.

Or use a sculpting/dental tool to depress the fold lines. Provides a thinner line than an old ball-point pen.

I switched to using an embossing tool, which has the added bonus of working just as well for reverse folds when used on the front side as actual reverse scoring with a razor - perhaps better.

I keep losing my embossing tools, old pens are easier to come by.