Hi there everyone!

My name is Jim.

I am brand new to World Works and Cardstock Modeling, though I am an experienced Dundjinni mapper.

I recently joined your ranks so that I can add some altitude to my maps.

I am mostly interested in D20 Modern, Zombie Horror, Year of the Zombie games, but I have been know to swing a deadly (though drunkardly) Dwarvin Axe at times.

I just purchased Mayhem Armoury, Bits of Mayhem and Mayhem Industrial. Any suggestions on how to get started?

Aubry said you guys were very helpful.

Oh. And any idea on where I can find 1" scale cardstock models of a M1114 Hummvee and a M2A3B “Bradley” Armored Vehicle?

Heya Jim,

I started with Bits of Mayhem since mostly all I was interested in was scaled vehicles. *However* The wheels oh gawd the wheels!!!

Since then I have most of the Mayhem sets and Let me tell you. Mix a building or street between every Vehicle you do and it will seem much more productive.

As for where to start? Try the Hollywood Flat in Bits of Mayhem. They are quite fast, easy and get you into Kitbashing quick.

Note: with the hollywood flats you will need to reinforce the sides. Several of us use foamcore strips, cardstock shapes or full foamcore.

From there you can either mass out your area or focus on adding detailing to the buildings. Including The Air Filter from Mayhem Armoury, Mounted on a Flats building can be a nice Roof Top AC unit. Fire escapes and so on add interest to the buildings as well. Keep in mind it is very easy to get carried away with one building.

Ah, also keep in mind you can always stack those puppies to create a massively tall building.

Hey Jim,

Welcome to the boards and the addiction.

On getting started, I highly recommend the model planner from the Streets of Mayhem. It has not been updated with the rest of the Mayhem items, but it will help in trying to lay out your city.

I believe Lord_Abaddon put some of the textures into a 3d type card program. That might be more useful.

Not sure about the Military Vehicles, but the scale of the 1" in scale terms is 1:60th. So you might be able to find something at a train store that is close, like "S" scale which is 1:64th.

Oh and you might want to start small. Sometimes having grand visions can be more detrimental than helpful.

Hope this helps.

CCotD' (Cerebral Cortex of the Damned)

Havn't gotten into Modern yet so I'll leave you to the more experienced heh.

Until Mel Ebbles revamped his site and got rid of all his sets with little warning I would have recommended that you go there for the vehicles you were looking for, unfortuneatly they are now gone and we're both out of luck, maybe he'll replace them or bring them back some day.

Welcome to the forums, hope your builds are straight and true, post pics if you can, we all love pics .

Edit: Er...looks like he brought them back, check under classic releases on Mel Ebbles site, you'll find the vehicles your looking for. Here is a for your ease, I know this one won't get edited out as most as Denny and Mel work together to enhance the cardstock modelling industry .

Denny, I noticed the links tab that used to exist on the storefront is gone, no more Radio Rivendell, Hirst Arts or MelEbbles Miniatures links?

Corgi makes a lot of diecast vehicles, although I havent seen those particular models. Might go to 1/48, which many folks use for 28mm skirmish gaming. Tamiya makes a new line of 1/48. and then there is Hobby Armor Depot (formerly All Fronts Armor Depot), also 1/48 but a bit rough on their resin castings sometimes. Nice gaming models but not so nice as you would want to display. Joe, the co-owner, does a nice home-made mold from his days in the Marines when he made threat recognition models. They are usually just a few parts, and are much less expensive than just about any other product.

http://www.hobbyarmordepot.homestead.com/

Last, I think Dogs of War/Devil Dogs made modern stuff in 28mm gaming scale, but last I heard, they were going out of business. Those vehicles get expensive in metal castings. Check http://www.pacificskygames.com/ and see if they have some advice on vehicles for that line.

And welcome to the group!

Can't give you much advice at this point (a little rusty), but welcome to the group!

Welcome, Jim!

As for where you should start . . . my suggestion is to look at the gallery pages for the modern builds, just to get a feel of what can be done. Everyone does something a bit different, so the pics are a good source.

One thing to think about is how will the layout of the whole map affect the game--if you are building for gaming purposes, that is. My current Mayhem build is for my son's Heroclix game. Typically, the first turn is about maneuvering your figs on the map. I didn't really take that into account when I started. About half way through, I realized that the layout I had drawn out wasn't very smooth. So it prompted me to revamp the layout and even to change what I was building. So having a plan for how the layout will affect the game really helps.

As far as particular pieces, that also depends on what you are going for. Do you want obstacles or objectives, hindering terrain or tactical advantages? In the current build, I am adding lots of little details--street signs, mail boxes, phone booths, fire hydrants, some vehicles, etc. Not only does it add to the feel but, in the game, there are rules of superheroes to use objects as weapons--I can see the Hulk smashing Wolverine with a city bus, can't you? Also, I have most of the buildings about 1/3 of the way onto the map and an empty space in the middle. That will encourage the long-ranged fighters to move up a little (instead of camping) just so they can get a clear shot and the melee-type characters to move into the middle to duke it out with their counterparts. Some of the ways to the middle are clear runs, others have obstacles--this give the player the option of either moving quickly or more slowly but with cover.

One final thing I'd suggest is, what do you want it to look like? After all, you are going to be building terrain partially because it looks damn cool--am I right? Having a map that is functional is a good thing, but don't for get about the form as well

As you build, don't forget that you have access to a gallery page, so take pics and share your creativity with the rest of us

Have fun and I am looking forward to see your take on building.

If you look at my gallery page, what you see will not reflect the layout that I mentioned above--it's been a while since I've updated. I will look into doing that in the next week or so . . . I hope!

Greets Jim.

Welcome to WWG Forums! And the Card Stock Addiction!

Mr.Aubry was right of course, as you can see from the plethora of pasts above.


My take on getting started would be to lay out a basic block of streets. (Maybe 3-4 tiles wide by 5-7(depending on table space). Then build a couple of the Hollywood flats, and the Pedestrian overpasses. And set them up. This will most surely inspire you to want to build a full building or two. Just be sure to break up the builds with some basic street lights, a car or 3, and some other props (like the concrete barriers).

And as someone mentioned above, check out the Gallery section of builds for some ideas and inspiration...

to one of DNA's(a prolific member here) Mayhem builds.

And here is 2GunMojo's

Take care & happy building,
Floyd

Welcome RangerJim! I couldn't help but notice you DIDN'T mention Streets of Mayhem. Am I right in assuming you did not purchase that set? The other Mayhem sets will sork fine on their own (or with hand drawn or other ground options) but they're designed primarily to be used with Streets as a base. So my recommendation would be to pick pick up SOM!

Dude... just put down the cardstock and walk away. It's an addiction and I am an addict, I can only hope to warn others, I cannot save myself...

Welcome aboard RangerJim! Just wanted to say thank you for your support and thanks for joining our forum.

Denny

Glad to see ya, Jim!

Hopefully, we'll be seeing some modern buildings soon for your Zombie game at Safe Haven Games.

I know you said you print the base map out with Dunjinni, but you should start with Streets of Mayhem, sure there are no buildings, but it does have a lot of really cool and easy to build accessories that are great for getting acquainted with cardstock.
Build a few street tiles and overpasses and you'll have the touch in no time.

After that, I'd check out the Hollywood flats from Bits of Mayhem and Downtown.

When I first started I built most of the stuff to complete Denny's promo build for SoM, I ended up building about twice that amount. As far a quantiy goes, that't been enough to support lots of differnt maps and builds.

Hope that helps...

Well, I did it...

I purchased SOM and BOM DownTown.

Thanks a bunch guys!

Now whatever free time I have will be filled with cutting and gluing.

YOU GUYS SUCK!!!

Whoo-Hoo!!! Another sales commission in my pocket

Just kidding RangerJim. You have made a wise choice. The SOM ground tiles are the best around, no exceptions, no kidding.

Have you decided to go the "Velcro" route to keep them in place, or perhaps the "Linx" method (those little bow-tie thingys)? Or perhaps something else?

What is the conventional wisdom on this?

The PaperlinX looks OK, but I can see how those would put more stress on the connection points.

And I have yet to have found a good description of the Velcro methodology - is there a link?

I have also been thinking about using some paper thin magnetic sheets - possibly gluing them on each corner and the center of the tiles and making a similar pattern on the MasterBoard.

What would you guys suggest?

I'm currently using magnetic strip that's 1/2 inch wide and thin, but not really thin, with sticky on one side for my Minichunk build. You can pick it up at craft stores in a roll for pretty cheap (locally I can get 2.5 ft for $0.57). I cut 1/2 inch squares and stick it to the bottom.

The only issue I've had so far is the adhesive that comes with it sometimes releases from the foam core. I'm going to try using some super glue to attach it next time I'm playing with it and one comes off.

I plan on starting a Skull Cove build soon and I plan on using the thin magnetic sheet that you see used for pizza refrigerator magnets. My local hobby store sells a 24x48 inch sheet of it for $20. I plan on using their regular 40% off coupons to cut down the cost on that. I figure I can get 18 7x7 cuts out of it and have some extra to play around with for other things. Then I can glue my masterboard terrain to that and place them on my magnetic whiteboard as needed.

Well, not that this really answers your question directly, but there is a master list of WWG main products, with a brief synopsis of what's included that can be found here:

http://www.worldworksgames.com/forum/vi ... 89c64a3e5d

The "Velcro" approach was detailed in the Pro-Masterboard instructions. Unfortunately, as you will see from the list, it was only explained in two kits, Chunky Dungeons, and MiniChunk Dungeons. Most of the other kits included Masterboard instructions. And the newest kits have Linx instructions.

Since you are new, the differences are:
Masterboard = print out various ground tiles and permanently afix them to a large panel (like a 20x30 foam core board).

Pro-Masterboard = Mount your individual ground tiles on foamcore, and place one half of a velcro square to the back. Then prepare a main board (again, this could be a 20x30 foamcore) and grid it into 1" squares, and then place the other half of a 1" velcro patch into each square.

In the end you have a big board covered with velcro, and since all of your pieces have velcro on their backs, you can place terrain anywhere you want, and it will "stick".

For a demonstration of this, I "think" you can check out some of the earlier fantasy kits, and watch one of their online videos. You should also check out the videos to the two Pro-Masterboard sets I mentioned above. I'm pretty sure there is a video that shows really quickly how it all comes together.

SIDEBAR NOTE TO DENNY: I'm sure you've got tons on your plate, but it would be nice to have the Pro-Masterboard instructions available as perhaps a free download "kitbash" type of file.

Okay, back on topic. Hopefully some master kitbuilders will chime in here and give you links to their galleries, so you can see how various techniques work in action. I cruise the gallery from time to time looking at Mayhem builds, but couldn't tell you who uses which method.

I have gone the velcro route. I opted to use a thin sheet of wood rather than foamcore for the base because I wanted it to be a little heavier. The ground tiles stay in place, period!

I then lay the buildings on top of the ground tiles, so if you bump the table the buildings can be jostled a little. But the main thing is, the ground tiles stay put. On a 7" square ground tile, I place a 1" patch of velcro in each corner. The base I have attached velcro squares every 7" as well. The reason the instructions specify filling the base board with velcro everywhere is because dungeon builds are typically made up of lots of smaller pieces. But for Mayhem, if you are going the 7" tile route, you don't need all the squares covered with velcro.

(Oh, it just occurred to me that it might be a good idea to include a poor graphic of the 7" placement. The velcro is placed at the 1" and the 7" and then the 8" and the 14" and then the 15" and the 21" points, etc):

X = velcro square
- = empty square

X-----XX-----XX-----X
-
-
-
-
-
X-----XX-----XX-----X
X-----XX-----XX-----X
-
-
-
-
-
X-----XX-----XX-----X

All of my cuirrent buildings are smaller than 7" square (I kitbashed some of the Mayhem buildings to be shorter and not so deep because I wanted to have wider sidewalks). However, I will probably make some larger factory buildings, and those I will probably glue to foamcore-backed ground tiles. They are large enough that I might as well fix the building in place.

As for magnets, interesting you should say that. I was about to create a new topic asking if anyone has done that. Thin magnets on the back edges, with some other magnets simply placed face up on a table "might" hold everything in place firmly enough that a jostle won't budge things. But I have some 60+ ground tiles with velcro and a prepared 2x4 base with velcro (and another in the works) so it may be too late for me to change at this point.

Steve