Thank you for the help.

And now I have some new questions. Does anyone have any tips about cutting the chain out of transparecies? When I originally cut them off I made them too wide in an attempt to avoid knicking the printing. And do to the slick nature of my transparencies and the thinness of the chains I made a mess out of the edges when I trimmed them and they keep getting caught on the gatehouse holes.

Before I waste anymore of the excesivelly priced inkjet sheets I need a better method.

Also I'm having some problems getting things to line up right when I assemble them. Two things in particular stand out enough to really bug me. The first, and to be fair is not really that obvious, is the complex tower. No matter how carefully I cut it out and no matter how tightly I glued the pieces together the upper stories are always wider than the lower ones. You only notice it when your actually stacking them, but it bugs me that dispite my care it keeps happening.

The other problem is visually much worse. When I assemble the straight walls individually they appear just fine but when I put them next to each other it becomes appearent that many of them lean slightly in or out, and not in the same direction so they look very sloppy. When I get the whole castle wall laid out it looks like a 5 year old made it. Hard on my pride and expensive too.

Any way to prevent this? Or a way to correct the existing ones?

One thing you'll find with paper is that it is really unforgiving. The slightest miscalc and you'll get warping, or misaligned walls, or a host of other problems. One way to mitigate that with chunky walls, like CWU, is simply just practice. A lot of my early work has, um, alignment issues. As I got more practice - especially with scoring, but also with setting glued pieces together - that got better.

I find most of my alignment issues happen with scoring, to be honest. This is because if you're off even just a fraction, when you glue a model together that wasn't perfectly scored, and you line up the glue tabs (or whatever) to be true, it puts your model slightly out of alignment - and so that means it will lean slightly, or be slightly too long or too short or whatever. I take a lot of care with scoring.

One practical thing you can do is make some kind of hard corner piece (I've seen folks use Legos), and when you glue a piece together corner together, square the piece off in there to make sure your angles are true. The squaring lets you compensate at the gluing stage for any off-aligned scoring.

I don't actually use a square like that, but I've seen some folks use it, and their results speak for themselves. I use two rules to help me square off items.

I definately have problems with the scoring. The blade is so much thinner than the doted lines. I try to stay in the center but it very seldom does everything line up. Normally its not a big deal the edgeing does a good job of hidding it.

I'm going to try that tip with the legos.

It occurs to me that I may be confused about what warping means. I had thought that it referred to the effect you get when you get a few drops of water on a book page and where the spots are seems to rinkle or bubble slightly. But some of the comments I've read make me think that it refers to an overall effect. That I should be looking at whether the house walls lay flat on a flat surfice before assembly.

I cannot really tell if I have that 2nd problem, I dont have any decent size unassembled glued pieces laying around. But it would have to be a subtle problem, I've never noticed anything. Actually I think that the paper is curled more just after printing than after I've glued it. And even that curling disappears after the paper dries, or maybe I flatten it. I tend to print a large nubler of pages and then sort them and store them in a binder. By the time I cut them they're flat.

Hi, I just finished messing with towers and walls in castleworks for the first time (see ). I haven't done the gate yet, but that's my next target - so thanks for posting this!

With the complex tower, I too found the score lines critical - and some of my shapes are, shall we say, less than octagonally perfect because of that . But, when you are looking at the entire assembled piece, something like that is usually not noticeable.

One huge problem I had with my first tower attempt was the print settings in Adobe Reader - I did not have the scaling set to "None" - I believe it was set to something to do with margins. It caused the two halves of the wall to be slightly different heights, which wreaked havoc when assembling.

I did not notice a problem with different overall diameter of various tower stories though.

With the tower walls - I have same problem. I'm planning on getting the wall leans all out during the basing process. I will probably mount all the walls on foamcore (so they have the same base depth as the towers), and then all pieces will be mounted on hardboard after that for miniature tabletop gaming. I had also thought about using some of that tacky temporary glue to join two walls together to keep them lined up properly, but since I plan on basing all these things on foarmcore / hardboard anyway I probably won't try that.

jim

It has been a fair while since I built any, built I think they are supposed to be glued on. However, when you're cutting them out, you can add tabs to the ends of them so they can fit in the wall slots used for hoardings and crenelations.

Oh heck, I have this new camera. Here, like this:







I put some comments on each picture in the album, here: http://wwgallery.pcinfoman.com/thumbnails.php?album=369

awesome!