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/includes/functions_reimg.php on line 126: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file /includes/functions_reimg.php on line 122: preg_match_all(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file /includes/functions_reimg.php on line 124: array_unique() expects parameter 1 to be array, null given [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file /includes/functions_reimg.php on line 126: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file /includes/functions_reimg.php on line 122: preg_match_all(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file /includes/functions_reimg.php on line 124: array_unique() expects parameter 1 to be array, null given [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file /includes/functions_reimg.php on line 126: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file /includes/functions_reimg.php on line 122: preg_match_all(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file /includes/functions_reimg.php on line 124: array_unique() expects parameter 1 to be array, null given [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file /includes/functions_reimg.php on line 126: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() WorldWorksGames • View topic - Matboard CWU Buildings Instructions
Dirigible Joined: 01-19-2004, 08:00 AM Posts: 1672 Location: White Rock,BC,Canada
Instructions for doing the CWU building in Matboard, with exchangeable windows and doors (note: this scale is currently limited to 3x3, 3x6, 6x6, 6x12, and 12x12). I am working on some interior wall inserts, though those will be coming in the future, as will the roofs (though the current roofs should work just fine with this system, either as cardstock, or matboard).
Basic tools I used for this build included a stanley heavy duty knife (which I use for all my builds, cardstock or matboard, and you WILL need a heavier knife for matboard), a stick glue for large surface areas (currently using the UHU gluestick), Elmer's white glue (which I use for corner joins, and floor inserts), edging markers (recommend you use what your used to, though both thick and thin is recommended), a metal ruler for straight edges, a plastic ruler with a high straight edge for my current bevel cutter (I used very fine grit sandpaper glued to the bottom for grip and support), roller, and two different sizes of nail files (I use these to get into tight corners for gluing purposes), and most important, an adjustable depth bevel cutter. Here is a of the tools I used for this build.
A note about the bevel (45 degree angle) cutter I use. I have to my ruler while using this cutter, as the blade is set about 1/2 to 2/3rds of a millimetre away from the guiding edge as shown here with the , and here with the . Certain bevel cutters may not need this adjustment.
Basic Room, with Basic Wall Inserts:
1) Print and cut out the walls (including tabs) as shown , it is also recommended that you edge these pieces (especially the tabs).
2) In the case of wall inserts, or arches, you can start with either the inside, or outside wall sections, however, when doing doors and windows, you will want to start with the outside wall sections first (which I will clarify in the doors and windows instructions). Glue the walls to the backing of your choice (matboard, balsa wood, foamcore, etc...). For a six inch wall, use , for a twelve inch wall use . If you start with the inside walls first, then glue the tabs into place as shown , and .
Important Note: if your printer suffers from warping prints (which mine occasionally does even though I have checked the alignment time and time again), the double check the measurements of the piece (CWU walls should measure 3" height, by 6" length), otherwise you should be fine. This step is important if you want your rooms to sit on top of each other and be the same size.
Important Note #2: Make sure for 12" wall sections that you glue both wall pieces the same way (interior: so the candles are upright, exterior: so the border along the bottom lines up). This is a stupid mistake I have made before .
3) For this part you will need a ruler (with 1" measurements), and a knife. Measure out the slot pieces along the top and bottom of the wall. I use 2" wide wall slots (two per 6" wall). For a 6" wall, mark () at these measurements; 1/2", 2 1/2", 3 1/2", and 5 1/2". For a 12" wall continue the measurements; 6 1/2", 8 1/2", 9 1/2", and 11 1/2". Here is a , and here a picture using toothpicks to show where I made the marks (please note that my ruler is offset 1", which I do to increase accuracy).
4) Then mark the top of the insert pieces on both ends of the walls (measuring from the bottom), at the 2 1/4" height, measuring from the bottom of the wall to the top (though you can go as high as 2 1/2" without affecting the durability of the build). In this I used toothpicks to show where I made my marks (the ones on either end of the wall), here is a shot. Align your ruler at these height marks, and either make another set of measurement marks (as seen in the previous closeup shot, the toothpicks sitting on the wall piece are pointing to tiny marks in the wall itself), or just use the measurements listed above. Cut completely through the matboard (as straight as possible, may take several firm passes), along these marks as shown , and here in this .
5) Now take your bevel cutter, and adjust the depth of the blade to cut through only half of the thickness of the matboard (taking into account the thickness of the cardstock, I usually use scrap leftover pieces to do this as shown , and ). Then for a 6" wall, starting from the bottom of the wall at the measured marks 2 1/2", and 5 1/2" (for a 12" wall include 8 1/2", and 11 1/2"), cut inwards, with the blade cutting towards the insert pieces along the marks you made in step #3. DO NOT CUT ALL THE WAY FROM THE BOTTOM TO THE TOP OF THE WALL, only cut from the bottom to the top of the insert piece that will be removeable or the line shown in this which you cut in step #4. For the other measurements (6"wall; 1/2", and 3 1/2", and 12" wall include 6 1/2", and 9 1/2"), still cutting inwards towards the insert piece, cut from the top of the line in this , to the bottom of the wall, again, DO NOT CUT FROM THE TOP OF THE WALL ALL THE WAY THROUGH TO THE BOTTOM OF THE WALL.
6) Make an indentation all the way through the matboard at all 4 corners as shown . I also at this time cut the top and bottom of the wall at this point (NOT THE SIDES). This will allow you to glue the reverse sides parts in place accurately, lining them up with the side you just finished.
7) Repeat steps #1-5 on the reverse side of the wall, with some important reminders, and additions. 1: Make sure you are not glueing the reverse side upside down (yes I have done this, and fortuneatly noticed while the glue was not dry). 2: Step #4 is not technically nescessary, just turn the piece back over, and using the cut you made as a cutting guide, cut through the additional thickness of cardstock that you just glued to the reverse side.
Now, take your bevel cutter, and making sure you readjust it to cut through the full depth of the matboard, and both thicknesses of cardstock (with a little extra room to spare), line up your ruler along the end of the wall (ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE WALL, NOT THE INSIDE, VERY IMPORTANT NOTE), and cut inwards towards the wall, all the way through from the top to the bottom of the wall. At this point in time, your wall should be completely removed and ready for the final touches.
9) Make sure that the insert pieces slide out as they are supposed to, you may need to do a little wiggling if the cuts were not complely joined in the insert pieces. The result should look something like before edging.
10) Edge where nescessary.
11) Repeat for all four walls of a building (a 6x6" building will require four 6" walls, a 12x6" building will require two 6" walls, and two 12" walls, etc...).
12) Leaving in the inserts take the four prepared wall sections (), and apply glue to the appropriate edges. Glue the pieces together, and hold until dry. A helpful hint, I use the paperlinks tiles to make sure my bottom stays square and tight, while I hold the top, as shown . In the case of a 12" long wall, I use paperlinks tiles on the inside to push the walls outward while gluing the four corners together (as seen in the previous pic).
13) For the floor, glue a standard floor tile (of your choice) to the matboard, for a 12x6" room, you will need to connect two as shown in here. Take your glued walls, and measure along the bottom (edge to edge as shown in this . Following these measurements, cut out the floor tile and edge (DO A DRY TEST FIT TO MAKE SURE THIS PIECE IS NOT TOO LARGE OR SMALL). Leaving the inserts in still, apply glue to the non insert edges along the bottom of the walls, as shown . Making sure the walls are sitting upright, take the floor piece, insert it from the top, and push it down to the bottom, if your measurements were correct, it should be a snug fit, but not so tight as to force the glued corners apart. Make sure you hold all four corners down against a flat surface until the glue has dried eneogh to hold. Before the glue is fully dried, very carefully remove the insert pieces (don't push on the floor as it may come free again), this will insure that any overflow glue will not accidently make them permanent insert pieces. Double check to make sure that all the sections in between the inserts are glued properly, and that all of the insert pieces slide in and out moderately smoothly (some of mine are a little tight, and some just a little loose, but overall, the exchange with other inserts quite well.
You should have something that looks like when your done.
Optional: for added durablility and squareing, you can insert small corner tabs at the top of each of the corners (similiar to the VillageWorks building corner tabs). This is not nescessary, but if you encouter warping (VERY RARE, and usually dependant on weather conditions), it will help to straighten the build, it will also give it a surprising added durability (though I have not felt the need to do so on mine as of yet).
Any questions, clarifications or problems, or if you see I made a mistaken link or just a mistake period, just ask or point it out, and I will fix it ASAP.
Edit: , found a mistake myself, listed the CWU walls as 4", when they are actually 3", and I wasn't even near a computer when I realized it !
"Sir...I think you have a problem with your brain being missing" Zoe ~ Firefly
Last edited by Shatteredragon on 05-24-2006, 12:10 PM, edited 2 times in total.
Dirigible Joined: 01-19-2004, 08:00 AM Posts: 1672 Location: White Rock,BC,Canada
Wow, do I feel stupid, just spent the last hour typing instructions, forgot to save, and somewhere in my brain decided to close the window . I'm, um, starting over .
1) First follow steps #1-6 as listed in the wall instructions. Also remember that I mentioned in step #2 I made a note that you should start with the outside walls, before you glue the inside walls. It is more important for doors, than anything else, this way the door will always open up into the room that it's slotted into (more durable, and can be opened the other way by either reversing the insert, or slotting it into the ajoining room). I use the floor to help hold my doors open, so it is somewhat important that mine open inward.
2) Print and cut out the cardstock at this point as well, and edge them. It is optional to cut out the printed glass portions of the windows at this point in preperation for transparencies, you can do it now, just as easily as later after you have glued it to the backing your using. Also, if your going to use transparencies, might as well prepare them now too.
To make arches, take a door, with a stone arch, and . Or you can do it in an art program, I just don't have one.
3) Glue the pieces, as shown , and from step #2 onto the wall section from step #1, choosing a hieght, and centering the piece. I center doors & arches with my eye, and measure windows (varies with window type). For height, I've gotten used to aligning the windows on one line of bricks, surprisingly accurate, I even use miniatures to make sure the window is placed at a good height for realism.
4) Cut out the , and save the door, remembering to edge the insides of the of the hole, and in the case of the door, the edge of the door. It is also recommended at this time, to cut out the arch, as this will be the most stable cutting point in the build. Save the cutout arch piece, as it will be needed to fill the hole when doing bevel cuts later.
For doors, to allow for the door to swing in and out with the inserted floors, you will have to remember to raise the door to allow for the thickness of the backing your using, in the case of matboard, this will be a very thin strip of material at the bottom of your door (be extra careful while cutting near this, as this is a very flimsy piece, as shown , it is also present on the ). Following the outline of the door, cut the piece out completely, and remove it.
5) For the doors & windows, take the reverse sides wall pieces, and making sure they are the right side up, glue, tape, or secure them temporarily in alignment on the reverse side, here is what it should look like from the , and from the . Turn the piece over to the cutout side, and using a fine tipped pencil, or other marking instrument, trace the outline of the window, or door, this will insure that when you cut it out on the reverse piece, it will align properly. Remove reverse side before glue dries completely. You can also choose to cut them out at this point, if your confident in your knife skills, I am not. If you feel that the thickness of one piece of cardstock is not durable eneogh for your hinge, don't completely cut out the door, leave the hinge uncut, you can even score it at this point (just make sure your not cutting through the wrong side, like the hinge). You should have something that looks like .
6) you traced. If your doing transparencies, you can now glue them directly to the matboard as shown and . Proceed to steps #1 & 2 for the reverse side, as listed in the walls build above.
7) You should now have something that looks like . Now take the reverse sides of the cardstock windows & doors, and after doing the edging, them into place (if your doing transparencies don't forget in the case of the windows, to cut out the printed glass portions). Here is a pic of some . For the door, cut out the outline of the door, except for the hinge side, which you can score or fold, depending on your preference. It should now look like , now would be a good time to edge. Take the cutout door piece, apply glue, and , give the door a few test openings and closings before the glue dries completely to insure it opens smoothly. It should now look something like . For the arches, just glue the arch reverse on at this point and it is done.
Proceed with the steps to finish your building build, if your worried about durablility while gluing the walls together, when you remove the inserts, you can replace them with wall inserts before proceeding to step #12. Here is a to the instructions pics, and more reference pics.
"Sir...I think you have a problem with your brain being missing" Zoe ~ Firefly
Last edited by Shatteredragon on 05-24-2006, 12:34 PM, edited 7 times in total.
Dirigible Joined: 08-27-2003, 07:35 AM Posts: 1176 Location: Alameda, CA
Hi SD, lovely work!
I just wanted to let you know that the picture links in your first post are off.
HEH! I just figured out what's up with those wwgallery links... The numbering of the pictures in each gallery depends on whether the pics are sorted by title, file name, or date. So your first pic with the tools you use could be at "pos=32" if you have the directory sorted oldest to youngest, pos=2 if you have it sorted with the most recent pics on top, pos=1 or 25 if you have it sorted by title, etc.
When you put a link to one of these pics, e.g. "http://wwgallery.pcinfoman.com/displayimage.php?album=3&pos=23" for the tools pic, which pic the user sees will depend on whether the user has looked at that directory before, and in which order he had it sorted! Now that's pretty wacked!
There must be some sort of absolute referencing of the pics, but I haven't found it yet...
Last edited by Conaill on 05-24-2006, 12:38 PM, edited 2 times in total.
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