In the interest of educating the people who are not aware of this technique, could someone do a write-up on this and post it as a sticky?

Thanks.

KaneLinx

KaneLinx (known as ShogolinX for a very short while) is an oft-reinvented technique for mounting a masterboard that combines the modularity of PaperLinx with the nearly seamless look of Pro Masterboard.

Ther basic idea is that you cut up the foamcore tile as if doing a Paperlinx tile, and then glue the cardboard tile meant for the pro masterboard on top of it, hiding the "Linx" underneath.

Methods vary slightly, but here's what should be a good walkthrough:

1. Print the ground tiles you want from the Pro Masterboard file, cut it out, and edge it normally..
2. In Photoshop or Paint, create a contours only (single black line is okay) version of the PaperLinx tile, as well as of the Linxtabs themselves.
3. Print the contour versions on normal paper, and cut them out.
4. Put the contour shape on top of a board of foamcore (do not glue it, ideally -- pushpins might help, but your ruler should hold it, really), and use it as a pattern to cut it up as you would a PaperLinx tile.
5. Glue the Pro Masterboard tile on top of the tile and press it horizontally between hardcover books (be sure to protect your books!)

The Linxtab itself needs no manipulationd beyond cutting. Just put it in the wedge undeneath the tile.

See this thread/post for examples and a more complete discussion:
http://www.worldworksgames.com/forum/vi ... c&start=32

Am I the only one that thinks that maybe Kanelinx should be renamed to be more discriptive? I think Kane should get some credit for the idea, but I don't think the name KaneLinx really compells the idea of what the actual implementation is. I was thinking along the lines of UnderLinx. (UngerLinx? )

KaneLinx isn't officially part of the WWG lineup, nor does any official model, tutorial, or instruction file refer to it in any way.

Considering the long-standing names of many standards (British Naval Connector, anyone?), I don't see anything wrong with it. KaneLinx sounds good, writes out good, and even when called UnderLinx, you'll still need the concept explained anyway.

Kane? Shogo??

As much as I like seeing my name all the time (heheh), I'm not opposed to a different name if anyone has suggestions.

Thanks for the write-up Archon. Even if this thread does not become a sticky, it may make it easier for people to find if the do a search for KaneLink.

HiddenLinx?

That is why you are a gentleman as well as a scholar and cardstock modeller!

Mumble ! mumble !...old wounds...still bleeding ...

I'm into the "Kane-link before know for a shot period of time Shogolink"...is not as shortone not descriptive enought...but sounds funny... I don't care for the name really as I'm inventing my own system -> go to Trips forum and cry !!!

Thanks for digging out the info ArchonShiva!

Oh so it was ShogoLynx first? I didn't realize that. Even after going to the thread mentioned above. (How about Sho-KaneLynx)


Anyway, a few things about this system (as I see it anyway).

1. This is a great way to make all the tiles go together seamlessly. And it uses the great tab system that Denny pioneered for his sets starting with Castle Works ultimate. But the process is done before the actual printed tile is glued to the foam core.

2. It does require a slightly higher degree of consistency in the cuts and gluing of the tiles for it to work properly. And the Sho-KaneLynx system does require an extra step. But the payoff is not having the lynx tabs visible.

Anyone else notice this? Something I've always been hit or miss on (probably do to inconsistent cuts) is the tabs not always fitting properly. Some fit rather snuggly. Which is not a bad thing, but having to put the tabs in from underneath may be a bit more fiddly.
Maybe since the tabs are now hidden underneath; could cutting the very pointy tip off of each lynx tab help the fit without sacraficing the intergrity of the whole?

I've decided just to make myself a temeplate in Photoshop. (Much like the plain white floor templates). This will eliminate some guess work and will also allow me to creat the Lynx Tabs by careful butting of the tiles during the glue to the foam core phase. A few less cutting pieces of foam core is a blessing in my book.

Anyway great topic. And I hope it opens up more avenues and approaches to the PaperLynx system.

No please no Kane-Shogo-link... only Kane-link...a long history short...Kane mentioned that way in a post and it seemed to die the idea and a few month latter I post a few pictures of me doing it (without knowing that Kane mention it in that post) so it started as Shogo-link before someone remember that first post...So the merit is of Kane I supose that only make it more known...
And to be fair my first tries ended with tiles that where completely misaligned... I have stopped playing with it since then...but I supose that something like a template as you say would be the best think to do...

Stickying this is a good idea.

Hey, how bout InvisoLinx? Descriptive enough, I'd say.

SneakyLinx?



Lord Abaddon of Wormwood

Didn't so much dig out as remember seeing a post about it a long time ago, reverse engineered it and posted my steps.

It works great though. I love the look, quite seamless.

While I wouldn't exactly recommend trying to use the tabs you cut out as links, you can indeed make them lots less precise. In fact, so long as the thin part is the right wodth and it goes slitghly wider after that, you should be okay. I have some linx that are far from proper double trapezoids, trust me -- you can cut these out of any odd discarded bits of cardboard you find.

Whence you remove the necessity of glueing the picture on top of the tabs it may, in fact, be less work than the proper "Paperlinx" way.

I do recommend making up a blank (paper) linx template. You can glue it to the cardboard with a tiny bit of school glue, then remove it after cutting. If it rips the covering off the foam core, it doesn't matter - it's invisible!

To me, KaneLinx just seems like an evolution of the "PaperLinx" concept, and could probably share the name.

Unofficially, it's nice to refer to them as "kanelinx" so we know what we're talking about, heh.

Name aside, it is probably worthwhile pointing out that DungeonLinx : Lair of the Dragon God has a whole bunch of useful templates for printing out and using to create a kanelinx'd build.

It will usually save the need for the step of photoshopping a template yourself, which often puts off beginners and intermediate builders.

I wish I'd had these before I started my CWU build. I certainly would have gone for kanelinx rather than paperlinx.


Frank

UnderLinX!

Anyway. I haven't been brave enough to do any LinX at this point, much less the sneaky hidden ones.

As opposed to the original, UngerLinX?

BA-DUM-TCHH...

Question for the cardstock vets here; what do you use to cut the foam tile into the bowtie shape?

I use the same thing that I use to trim the foamcore normally. In my case a utility knife.

For foamcore or matboard, or even balsa wood, much like pelthar I use a heavier utility knive, here is mine, off to the right, a basic Stanley. The little hobby knives just don't cut it, lol.

Here are a few more posts about knives:
http://www.worldworksgames.com/forum/vi ... php?t=1176
http://www.worldworksgames.com/forum/vi ... 50&start=0
http://www.worldworksgames.com/forum/vi ... php?t=1277
http://www.worldworksgames.com/forum/vi ... php?t=2220

Hope that helps some.

SD, now either you forgot a comma or you just called me balsa wood

Lol, edited. You'd think I'd be better at stuff like that since I'm constantly writing in hopes of one day being published .

Bah, writers usually make awful editors...they work off meaning not content, heh. Hard to slow down for little things like grammar and spelling...


(Yay, I can post again...some combo of things about the new wireless router for the wife's business laptop was halting most of my posting and e-mailing for some reason, slow to load my start page too)


New idea for big tile linking: how about a small square of velcro (hooks) under each corner of the 7" tile, then a double size rectangle of fuzzy to hold the corners of adjacent tiles together. The hooks can double to hold the tiles to a felt mat too. For a four way corner you would just use a square fuzzy to sit under all four corner pieces.

I've been toying with that very idea, but until I get a new printer I will not be able to try it out.

A mortal insult. I smell a duel.

But in seriousness, thanks for the info SD. Can a craft or utility knife really cut balsa wood without splintering? I've not worked with Balsa since I was a Boy Scout, so I'm not familiar with it.

As long as the blade is sharp, dull ones are likely not to do as well, and it helps to add a precut line, only cutting part way thru the wood, similiar to scoring. Havn't used balsa wood myself for quite awhile either though so I'm mostly going off of memory here.


What shall it be Pelthar, pistols at ten paces, swords at midday, or cannons at three feet .

Tried, doesn't work. Actually, it works too well -- the hooks will adhere far more forcefully yo the fuzz than to the foam piece. It works with Chunky because they're on cardboard, but if you want grroves so that your tiles don't lift, it simply doesn't hold.

What I've fopund works best, by a very long shot, is maskin' tape. It peels off easy enough (stick it on your palm first to kill teh glue a bit) and is thin enough to be unnoticeable. Best of all, it required no additional cuts in your base tiles whatsoever, and you don't have to line-up your tiles at a particular position as with LinX. It might bite off *some* of the finish eventually, but it's underneath the tiles anyway, and Linx' tend to wear off as well...

Good call, simpler is better.