Good Afternoon,

I'm playing around with Hinterlands Cliffs and I seem to be having a wee bit of difficulty; how are the double height cliffs assembled? Does any one have any images of set ups? If you could you please post them.

The other thing I was wondering is, how have people reinforced the cliffs? Do you find them sturdy enough? I'm a bit confused as to why there is detail on both sides.

cheers
Andy

I am actually making a several foot high mountain out of these and the Fat Dragon set. Does this help at all?

As far as reinforcing it, perhaps take a cardstock paper, make a box (hotdog, not hamburger). cut the corners at each end, lay them out like a flower at each end and glue to underside (inside) of cliff. Does that make sense?

- Adam

@oldskoolrebel - You've gotten some mixed advice, and when I put my support hat on at work, I like to be explicit and make sure we've got the facts straight.

adamcboyd added a picture of the set, and CapnG has shown you pics from the . I've never worked with the pre-TLX version, but it *sounds* like you're referring to the TLX stuff. Is that correct?

Everything I say below is really in reference to the TLX cliffs, which is all I'm familiar with. If you're using the older set, I think my questions still apply.

I know - that's a great build utilizing the cliffs.

Now, you asked how to assemble double height cliffs. Can you reference the specific set/file/page you're having trouble with? For example, in the TLX set, there's a "Double-High Walls.pdf". All of those walls are built the same way the regular height walls are built, so I'm not sure what would be giving you trouble. Have you built any other pieces? The only difference is that the double-high walls need a double-high post to slot into.

Reinforcing the cliffs... Again, if you're talking TLX, I've found the cliffs to be remarkably sturdy. The way they've been designed, tiles rest on the posts and walls (many flat walls have an anti-warp feature which acts as a supportive ledge too, for tiles above, though tiles generally can rest on the posts just fine).

Basically, everything CapnG said (for the TLX stuff) is very true. In general, if you're unsure about how a piece is to be made, or how it is to be used, give it a go, and if you think it's not working out right, you can post specifics relating to the process (preferably with pics to show how it's not working out).

This is another great TLX pic showing the double-high walls mixed with other walls:



In the upper left you can see double-high posts being used to support double-high walls and regular walls.

I hope this helps!

Since the thread title is "Hinterland Cliffs", I have to assume it refers to the current version of the set with that name. Also the reference to double-sided textures in the questions relates to something not present in the original version of the set.

On the subject of reinforcement generally, one option is to use cover stock rather than card stock as a building material. Not all printers can print on cover stock however and certain build tolerances within the set may be affected by doing so.

Thanks brother. I will keep an eye out for that. Is there any other insider secrets? I have a cameo and an SD, a CIS for my mx 882, and a ton of cardstock. I was told WWG uses matte photo paper for the promo shots so that let to my previous statement. However, I treat this as my hobby so I am already invested in it this far so I would love to know anything I am missing.

And if this is one of those "start a new topic for this question" boards, then let me know where to post this. I figure we are all part of a very small community trying to help each other and not push anyone away. Nothing is worse than 100 guys active on a board that 99.

- Adam

Most of what you are asking is personal preference. For 99% of my modeling, I personally use Matte Photo Paper, my Silhouette SD, a combo of Sharpies and Crayola Markers (mostly gray), and UHU glue (glue sticks and Twist n Glu).

As for topics, that is your call. Starting a million threads seems silly, but more than one could give you added exposure to people with advice. At this point it seems to still be loosely on topic.

OK. Now I have to ask. I see those low-moisture UHU glue sticks in all the instructions and........ I CAN'T FIND THEM! Nope, not anywhere at all. There is the twist and glue that looks like what Crazy Glue (super glue) comes in now so I am confused.

I have some sticks that worked for me in the past but are failing me now and have been using white crafters glue (Elmers I think), so where do you get this stuff still?



- Adam

Not sure who told you we print on matte photo paper for our promos but that's just not the case. There may be one or two recent exceptions but I can guarantee 99% of what's currently in our catalogue was printed on regular card stock. Denny's sets are printed on a laser printer and the rest of us on various inkjets. We do retouch the photos somewhat to try and show the product as close to an ideal build as possible but for the most part it's WYSIWYG.

I don't think UHU actually makes those glue pens anymore. They were problematic though, especially if you lived in an area where the humidity changed considerably depending on the season. The UHU twist-n-glue bottles are much better in my opinion, albeit slightly more watery than the pens were. Any business supply store should carry them.

I use these:
http://www.amazon.com/Saunders-Glue-Sti ... s=uhu+glue
http://www.amazon.com/Saunders-Glue-Sti ... s=uhu+glue
http://www.amazon.com/Saunders-Twist-Gl ... s=uhu+glue

As for the Matte Photo Paper, there are a few of us regulars on the forums that talk about using it, but, as Matt said, not the people actually making promo shots. It is a nice this to have, but not a requirement. More than half of my terrain is on cardstock. That being said, all my future terrain will be on Matte Photo Paper.

Awesome! I will pull the trigger today on one set today. I am doing mostly floors and walls so is there a preference for you on one set over the other?

I had purple ones, which are nice, but they were the kid kind and have become a problem by drying too fast and no staying stuck.

And I love the Cliffs sets (since I am threadjacking at this point).

- Adam

You looking for Fantasy? Modern? SciFi?

Second question...Rural? Streets? Buildings?

Sorry, I meant glue preference. Lol

I use . I can usually get it for @$8 USD for a 2 pack. I don't get a lot of warping, unless I do a board larger than 12" x 12"

I'm a big fan of the Scotch Clear Glue with 2 Way Applicator:





Target sells them, so they're easy to get if I need more.

I used to use: . It goes on REALLY easily, especially for sandwich folds or gluing the wrappers onto tiles, but I've found it becomes REALLY stiff and inflexible when it dries, so I've stopped using it.

While we're on the subject of adhesives, I simply cannot recommend double-sided tape strongly enough for doing walls, especially double-height walls. The headaches it saves from warping alone are worth the extra cost (to say nothing of the speeding up of the process in general).

That also reminds me that I use label paper for the TLX tile templates and the tab templates. They are worth the money for the time they save.

Thank you all for the replies.

It was indeed the Terralinx version of Hinterlands that I was talking about.

I've read the posts looked at the pictures and realized that I didn't fully appreciate the terralinx system. I now realize how they are meant to go together. It's a great system, I love the ingenuity of it. However it's not really the effect that I'm after. I think I will prepare the cliffs much like the older system. It will take some playing around on my part but it should be worth it.

I think I'll need to reinforce many of the sections using foamboard; I'll have a go later tonight (I've got some glue arriving today) and then post the results.

I love the ease of use of card stock terrain; I'll looking to use it for a oneshot RPG at the beginning of next month. It's ideal due to it's cost, easy of preparation and low storage space. To give you an idea, this is the sort of terrain I'm use to creating (although never for an RPG). Please excuse the pink carpet, the image was taken in my old house.



I suppose the dream would be to create terrain like this for RPGs, smaller 1'x1' or even 2'x2' boards. Space and cost are the only real issues just now (oh and ability. And speed. And...).

Still the WWGs stuff is amazing in it's own right and I look forward to playing around with it.

Cheers
Andy

You should check out gallery. The older Vault and Classics may fit what you are looking for better also. Curtis does mostly foamcore bones with WWG skins. I have done some stuff that way, and there are a few guys/gals on here that do it with TLX for a more fully 3d board.