Someone may have posted this before, but it hit me tonight, and I thought I'd share.

First, (in one man's sort of humble opinion) if you don't edge your models, you're missing out. It makes a world of difference. Huge difference.

Second, (and this is the advertised revelation) you don't have to glue the model together before you edge. In fact, the edging comes out much better if you edge the seams and sides - especially ones that are going to be glued together - before you glue. MUCH BETTER.

I've been assembly lining models tonight (during the NCAA Championship) - cut, edge, glue, repeat - and the edging looks so much better. No frustrating little white spot that you just can't get to, no ink smudges along the model's spine, just a nice, unobtrusive edging job.

A revelation indeed. Why didnt I think of that? I will give that a shot while building "The Maiden". Thanks Robby!

Was that a dig, Denny?  The comment about "building 'The Maiden'"?  Oh, you can be so cruel, Denny...   :'(

No dig...I start work on some construction elements this Monday.

I'm feeling kinda funny ... I've never edged a model after it's built. I always edge before building. I thought that's how everybody did it, it's so self-evident. I woulda patented it if I'd known! LOL

A classic case of following directions. I've never done paper modeling before, so I followed Denny's directions (which are pretty good, BTW), starting with CastleWorks. Edging is listed after gluing, and the pictures shows what looks like a masterboard being edged, and a house - assembled - being edged. So I just followed along with the directions, like a good little lemming.....

Looking now, and having done some pre-glue, it does seem self evident to edge before gluing.

I've encountered a few things like this that aren't listed in the guide that I think might be useful for total novices like me (like not forgetting to change your blades. Man what a difference a fresh blade can make). Maybe I'll compile a list and post them.

I've tried both markers and crayons and there are benifits to both.

Crayons don't bleed, and are cheap.

Markers, or a small felt-tipped pen are good... for getting into hard to reach spots. However they bleed very easily in my experience (perhaps it's the paper I'm using) and so are unsuitable for most of the easy to reach spots.

Hey Robby,
Glad I read your post. I was about to ask if anyone else was edging before gluing up. I have found it is MUCH better and do it about 99% of the time.
Ive been working with the new Sharpies that come in all the useful colors now. They can be purchased individually at your local craft store. I have found them to be the best thing I've worked with. The cheap pens give out too quickly or are too broad for some applications.
D7

After having done my first Chunky Dungeon build, I was just thinking of trying that myself. I, as well, was just following instructions and never thought to edge first.

Oh, man. If you've ever pulled your hair out after ruining an already constructed piece trying to edge a hard-to-reach inside corner, then pre-edging is for you.

Pre-edging has saved me so much hassle!

Wooden school ruler (has a raised brass edge usually, so no ink flowing unwanted places) and the colored Sharpies which bleed less than the paint/art pens. I use the paint/art pens for constructions that allow bleeding, ie., the colors match real well.

...O.K., so I'm coming around to the glue sticks, but that's a different thread... I did a little digging at card modeling sites and found modelers relating their stories of using watercolors (!!!) for edging. My first reaction was WTF? Watercolors? I've read about using crayons, and I've generally used markers or acrylics for edging, and have had mixed results with both... Markers or felts tend to mask the white and are quick, but provide an approximate match at best... Acrylic paints can be mixed to match perfectly, but are time-consuming and a pain to apply (Which is why I got into card modeling for gaming in the first place...). But watercolors??? Has anybody heard of this, much less tried it? I'm curious not just for my WW projects, but for another reason. I've recently become smitten with using matte board in various hues for studio work. This works great for white-to-cream-colored projects, but I've recently built a site model that's a very dark gray, and chunky (as in 1/16" thick boards). The edges show like crazy, as I didn't bevel cut anything (time is of the essence!!!). I'll shut the hell up and take suggestions, and any anecdotes if anybody has brilliant solutions or has used watercolors or the like...

Two other good ones...... when you've printed out the models (but before cutting) Give them a spray with acrylic varnish. Just a single coat. Now when you edge the model parts the printed surfaces are waterproof and the ink won't bleed. Also, if you go over anywhere, you can rub the excess off with a damp piece of tissue.
You get the same effect with a laser printer, the printed surfaces are waterproof and ink only soaks into fresh cuts and folds.

Other positive is the models don't absorb sweat, chocolate, beer and coffee stains as badly as inkjet only models. Makes them lots tougher.

After my first few builds I figured out that some edges look way better if you take care of them before gluing, and some not so much. I now routinely pre-edge models.

I also gleefully collect the new colors of sharpie markers (in the nice big rocket shape) so that I can color match a bit better. I have two different shades of brown, green, and blue. I also have warm and cool grey prismacolors. With this sort of selection it's easy to forget that sometimes black edging will just look better!