While reading through the instructions for the Maiden I've noticed (quite prominently in some pictures) that Denny has a big box of UHU Office Pens. Apparently it's all he uses anymore for building models - they're scattered all over the place, all half-full no doubt.

I've been trying it while building the Maiden and I'm having a problem with getting shiny spots all over the place, whether from squeeze out, sticky residue on my fingers (from wiping off squeeze out), and spots that I rub all over the place with my burnishing tool.

So, I'm wondering what others (Denny!) do to avoid this problem with this type of glue. I'm almost ready to go back to white glue, but this stuff is pretty convenient in all other respects and I like the lack of warping for laminated models...

D

Yes I've become a bit of a UHU office pen fanatic. When I'm in the nitty-gritty of a project I sometimes drop a pen or two only to find it a day later. Or I'll leave the lid off and completely mess up the tip. BAD BOY!

The UHU up Sides:

- Dries very fast
- No warping
- Easy to apply

The UHU Down Sides:

- Dries very fast
- Accidental smears or puddles leave a shiny residue that is difficult to remove.
- The bond may not last as long as white glue...Still awaiting confirmation on that one.

In answer to your question, I try to be careful. I have had some luck with cautiously scraping afflicted areas off with my Exacto. The glue dries into a medium that chips away fairly easy.

The only big complaint I have about UHU is that it is very sensitive to moisture. I have had a bunch of models falling apart this summer due to fog and high humidity.

The fog was the biggest killer, fortunately most of th models fell apart on their way back home rather than on their way to the festival. I caugt a few early enough that I coluld push the bits back in place, since the glue turned sticky again as it was moistened.

The Auld Grump

Thansk for the warning 'Grump, 'ere in Scotland thjat glue wouldn't stand up to much- We are getting quite humid but wet summer.

Me, myself, I use a general purpose pva glue. I find that this works well, but it can cause warping quite easily so I have to be very careful about how much i use.

Hanx
Elrond

The UHU glue pen is nice

Th real downside is that AFAIK the glue pen is of the UHU variety without solvents... which could attribute to the problems Auld Grump had.

I prefer using the good old UHU recipe with solvents... namely the "Flinke Flasche" (= Fast Bottle) with twist cap for point or area glueing.

I do remember though that the old recipe is not available in the U.S.

Recently I obtained WICOLL CARTON glue... it's basically a white glue, but I found it's a lot easier to use. It dries fast, has less water content and reduces warping. I use thin cardstock normally, so I am very sensitive to warping (e.g. the UHU glue pen is IMHO slightly too water rich).

I had been using glue sticks for the piece or two that I had made before discovering WWG. I have one building on the shelf that has half the roof sticking up where the glue let go some time after assembly. I have been using a UHU product, though not the pen as I couldnt find them locally yet, but a larger tube with applicator tip. I think I am getting it on a bit thick on the double-sided wall pieces as they tend to warp a bit as they dry - might be the printing instead of the glue, as the whole sheet tends to warp a bit on the printed side. I found it on the cave sections for Caveworks, but so far it is a positive thing as the caves are more cylindrical from the warpage. I'll work on my techniques as I move into the walls for Pubs & Inns and the Castles interiors set. Need to be able to put something on them as they dry, but have to be able to breath to dry quickly, so I'm thinking of putting a layer of cheesecloth on the parts to dry, then putting a book or something over that to keep it flat. I had used white glues on the stuff that came with my earlier GW sets and most of them came out okay, just seemed to take a while to dry. The stock seemed heavier than 110 pound, so I dont think the glue soaked in as much.

I just bought some Avery glue pens at Staples. So far so good but I do not stray far from good old Elmers white which I refill from a large bottle I bought several years ago. I have figures I glued down, built with, repaired, or filled with Elmers since 1974 in subtropical Florida. Talk about humidity!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not a problem with it in 30 years.
Hadsund [/img]

I've found Elmers Glue-All Glue Pens... they're basically a pen shaped tube with a longish nozzle and cap. They're labelled as "Glue-All Stylus"... it seems exactly the same as their normal Glue-All, only with a nice stylus like applicator. The top screws off, so you could refill it if you like... which is good since per-ounce it's probably 8x more expensive ($2.50 for 4 .35 oz applicators) than the normal glue ($1.50 for 7 5/8 oz)

http://www.elmers.com/product/product_p ... Code=E1462

No more transfer-glue-from-puddle-with-toothpick for me!

I'm new to this forum, having just purchased my first set (Searworks), but have done quite a bit of other types of card modeling. I've been very successful using Tombo "MonoAqua". Comes in a "fat pen" dispenser with a fine tip on one end and a wide spreader-tip on the other. It allows a bit of working time until the parts are squeezed together tightly, then bonds quickly.

It has worked very well for me here in Oregon but don't know if it'd stand up to heavy fog or dew.