On occassion I base on pink or blue insulation foam. For examle my Wizard's Tower/ Lighthouse is on a hill sculpted from insulation foam with a hotknife.

Any place where you want the result elevated you can use insulation foam, it is also possible to layer the foam. (My unfinished Pirate's Cove build had three layers, I still intend to build a new one some time in the future, but rebuilding is never as fun as the first time.) Islands for Sea Works, hills for castles, etc. Caveworks can be built into a foam construct to allow stacking the levels.

The Auld Grump, food, food sounds good... I think me blood sugar's low...

One step ahead of me o' wise one. lol I plan on purchasing my first Works tommorow. I was just wondering since Im buying all my materials, if I should/need to buy foamcore too.

I stated with the plaster house from CWU, and based both the first floor and second floor by gluing the floor sections to foamcore. But the second floor looks funny on the first floor, so those have become single floor structures. My first attempt, they look rather rundown (a bit too much glue on the sandwich folds), so they'll be my "bad side of town" houses. No loss there.

BUT for multi-story structures, does one base just the bottom floor? Or the second floor but cut your foamcore first and trim off the edges so that they sit inside the walls of the first floor below? I did bevel trim, still looks funny.

Thanks,
EJ

P.S. I've been playing with the props stuff in the meantime, have used foam core to "base" tabletops, works great. Haven't gone the length of reinforcing table legs. I use crayons to color in the sides and underneath the tables, matches surprisingly well.

I've built models without the basing and with, and personally, I prefer basing the models. Makes them more stable in my opinion, which by the way, is all this is.

I've even based the upper stories of buildings, and will continue to build that way. All you have to do when basing the upper floors is make sure that your basing material, foamcore for me, is cut in such a way that it will slip down inside the walls of the floor below. You can do that by either not running your basing up to the edge or sometimes by making the bevel cut just right. Since you really need to bevel your basing anyway, you're already on your way to a good build.

I bevel the majority of my basing freehand, as you really don't need a precise angle to have it work correctly. Hope that helps.

Skunk

Check out my fantasy campaign, Wizard Quest, a world using Wizards of the Coast’s 3.5 DnD system by visiting .

Check out the NEW IMPROVED flash teaser for my sci-fi campaign, , coming Jan 2007. I’ll be using D20 Future for the rules.

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I'm new on this forum and am not sure how to put a picture up for you to see.

I did the Hollywood flat, and stuck the walls (printed on regular paper stock) onto the floor tile glue side. I cut the tile to size first and taped the tile together on the inside. It makes for a very sturdy building. Let me know how to get pictues on line and I'll do my best too get them to you.[/quote]

[/quote] Again, no prob! The build looks quite sturdy. How long did it take to assemble (in relation to just regular cardstock glueing and such)?
Looks good :[quote]


It took much less time because all I had to do was tape the floor tile walls together, (after cutting to size) then after printing the walls on regular paper stock I simply peeled off the paper on the glue side of the vinyl floor tile. Then I laid the print outs on the glue side of the tiles and carefully rolled them to the glue. Then I duct taped the inside open corner. Then folded the roof tabs inward and laid the pre cut vinyl tile roof onto the vinyl tabs. (See graphic) Then I printed the roof on an Avery 5165 full sheet label. Peeled of the backing and stuck it to the non glue side of the roof vinyl tile. From there I glued on the finishing trim etc. The walls don't warp and they are very sturdy. I didn't have to use the paper base that came with the model. Nor did I have to glue reinforcements to the inside of the walls.
I don't do most of my walls with the floor tile except when they are high and need the strength.
I do use the vinyl tiles on all my bases though.
Also, as I was reading this forum, it occured to me that I could print out my maps and glue them to the vinyl floor tiles and easily lay them out for a game. They are ultra square and weigh enough to stay in place. Especially if the game table has a raised trim board around it, so the square floor tiles fit snugly into it.
I'm working to try and get more picts up.

I uploaded more of my model picts along with some discripts of them. Take a look...
the name is rplate
http://wwgallery.pcinfoman.com/thumbnails.php?album=207
You might notice on several of the model graphics I uploaded there is a red dot with a number attached to a clothes pin. You will also notice red dot numbers on my map. Instead of putting my models on the map I simply put the numbers there and whenever a person lands on the red number they interact with the building or (model) matching the red dot number. Saves a lot of space around the playing map. The models are brought to the play area as they are needed. The vinyl floor tile base is sturdy and allows for the handling of the models.