I've been building a shellendrak layout and I noticed that when stacked there is a gap on the front entrance walls because of the foamcore layer. So I used a section of the wall base trim to fill in the gap.

If the roof top of Shellendrak is large, or is going to be used in a game, basing it on foamcore will help eliminate any sagging. If basing the roof top on foamcore the support cubes will no longer be the correct size. Instead make supports out of 3 layers of scrap foamcore.


If done this way, its easier to put the top in place before the roof sides are connected to each other at the corners.

Either apply the roof top textures after the foamcore top piece is on the roof supports, or leave the edges unglued, so the sides' top tabs can be glued.




Also, applying additional layers of cardstock will help fix and warps in the floors or exterior walls.

When applying it to the back of the walls, try to do using as long a piece as possible and be sure to cover the seams between wall sections. After its glued and smoothed out, brace the section with section with scrap foamcore or some other sturdy flat piece. To brace it use clamps along the top of the walls and brace the bottom by pushing tacks into the foamcore base. Tacks are longer than the thickness of the foamcore so be careful on table tops.

For the floors simply apply another layer to the bottom, and place weight in the room interior. This is especially helpful for rooms or halls that use more than on floor tile. Again its important to cover the seams.

For both the walls and floors there is a limit to how many layers can be used before things no longer fit in place.

Yeah, sorry about that. I didn't check the pics until after I finshed that door.

Heres a better one.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18847547@N04/2327824135/" title="pinned door 2nd by wwg2062, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2139/2327824135_c84e107b55_o.jpg" width="504" height="862" alt="pinned door 2nd" /></a>

What it is showing, is the glue tab added to the top and the bobby pins in place.

Now it makes sense. That's a good idea!

The thing I like about doing them this way is that I'm not wasting the pile of doors I've already completed.

Rubber cement is very useful for the props.

Things like the paintings, curtains, and animal heads will hold securely but can still be repositioned. Although when repositioning the curtains and paintings a tool like a letter opener would probably help a lot. Something with a thin edge, but not sharp enough to cut the paper when separating them.


But its even useful for the chairs and things. It can keep them from shifting around when the table is bumped, I've turned one off my removable rooms upside down and they didn't come off. But they'll still come right off when they're pickup up. And any glue residue can be rubbed right off. It doesn't even discolor the paper, and I don't use color fixed ink.

About the only problem I've found is that I need to use a thicker layer of rubber cement. And that I need to insure there is a good contact for the glue surface. Usually I just need to press down on the prop carefully for several seconds. but if the bottom of the prop is bowed up so it doesn't touch the floor well, then the glue just doesn't hold.

Interesting

I do seem to do that multiple layer thing for side a, but not for side b.

I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned doing this before. But when I build my props I weigh them down with washers. As I assemble them I just pop in a washer or two and that gives them some weight so they are less likely to move or tip over. For the really tiny stuff I just use bits of metal/tabs that have been clipped off of miniatures as they are assembled.

-Audrey

Fishing weights would work as well, and they come in very tiny sizes. But it doesn't seem like enough weight could be put into the little props to keep them from moving if bumped. And then there are the props that have no interior, like the globe or tesla coil.

Ok,

Im gearing up to run a Castles & Crusades game mostly set in The East Mark. One of the first stopping points will be The Mad Archmage's old Manse. I've been thinking about what to use for this module and it occured to me that Shellendrak Manor should fit the bill. The Manse itself is suitably creepy and I was wondering about the difficulty level of doing Shellendrak? If its a nutcracker of a set, am I better off using another set?

BTW, thanks for the tips on layering, weights and rubber cement. Hopefully I will be able to show off my work in a few weeks.

Shellendrak isn't really any more difficult to build than other sets. The issue is that you must plan what you want to do before you build. It isn't a bunch of ready made sections like castleworks. Its a set of parts, various sizes of walls and floors.

Before you start printing come up with a floor plan. Also decide whether this is going to be a fixed structure or if the rooms will be removable.

Some people have done some really nice shellendrak builds with foamcore walls. But that is a kitbash thing.

I did the doors the same way except with an opening on each end of the door so you can take the clips out. Works great!

What do you mean by an opening? Got a pic?

Not yet, but I will get one tomorrow and post it.

Woops! Sorry. Took the pics, just need to upload them.

Alright, as promised, the pics are located . Let me know if the hotlink doesn't work.

Ah, I understand now. When I originally experimented with the bobby pins I tried something very similar. I went with the other way because it looked nicer. But there are tight spots on my build where the removable pins would be very handy.